浙江朱家尖岛东沙海滩对热带风暴“娜基莉”的响应及风暴后的恢复   总被引：1，自引：1，他引：0  

郭俊丽  时连强  童宵岭  郑禹君  徐岱璐 《海洋学报》2018,40(9):137-147

海滩对风暴的响应及风暴后海滩的恢复过程一直以来都是国内外海滩研究的热点。本文通过对浙江舟山市朱家尖岛东沙海滩地形地貌的现场调查，对比分析了热带风暴"娜基莉"影响下东沙海滩剖面的蚀积变化，探讨了海滩在热带风暴发生后的恢复情况。结果表明，在"娜基莉"影响期间，因风暴浪为向岸浪，东沙海滩几乎遭受全线侵蚀，12个剖面单宽侵蚀总量为73.46 m3/m，其中海滩直线段较两个遮蔽段侵蚀显著。由于海滩在风暴前进方向的左侧，且"娜基莉"距东沙较远，使得东沙海滩普遍侵蚀但强度较小。东沙海滩在热带风暴后的恢复过程中，不同部位的地貌调整和冲淤变化不同，下岬角遮蔽段基本趋于稳定，直线段和上岬角遮蔽段在恢复过程中因受海滩季节性调整的影响呈现持续侵蚀。  相似文献   

Large-scale experiments on beach profile evolution and surf and swash zone sediment transport induced by long waves,wave groups and random waves   总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1  

T.E. Baldock  J.A. Alsina  I. Caceres  D. Vicinanza  P. Contestabile  H. Power  A. Sanchez-Arcilla 《Coastal Engineering》2011

New large-scale laboratory data are presented on the influence of long waves, bichromatic wave groups and random waves on sediment transport in the surf and swash zones. Physical model testing was performed in the large-scale CIEM wave flume at UPC, Barcelona, as part of the SUSCO (swash zone response under grouping storm conditions) experiment in the Hydralab III program (Vicinanza et al., 2010). Fourteen different wave conditions were used, encompassing monochromatic waves, bichromatic wave groups and random waves. The experiments were designed specifically to compare variations in beach profile evolution between monochromatic waves and unsteady waves with the same mean energy flux. Each test commenced with approximately the same initial profile. The monochromatic conditions were perturbed with free long waves, and then subsequently substituted with bichromatic wave groups with different bandwidth and with random waves with varying groupiness. Beach profile measurements were made at half-hourly and hourly intervals, from which net cross-shore transport rates were calculated for the different wave conditions. Pairs of experiments with slightly different bandwidth or wave grouping show very similar net cross-shore sediment transport patterns, giving high confidence to the data set. Consistent with recent small-scale experiments, the data clearly show that in comparison to monochromatic conditions the bichromatic wave groups reduce onshore transport during accretive conditions and increase offshore transport during erosive conditions. The random waves have a similar influence to the bichromatic wave groups, promoting offshore transport, in comparison to the monochromatic conditions. The data also indicate that the free long waves promote onshore transport, but the conclusions are more tentative as a result of a few errors in the test schedule and modifications to the setup which reduced testing time. The experiments suggest that the inclusion of long wave and wave group sediment transport is important for improved near-shore morphological modeling of cross-shore beach profile evolution, and they provide a very comprehensive and controlled series of tests for evaluating numerical models. It is suggested that the large change in the beach response between monochromatic conditions and wave group conditions is a result of the increased significant and maximum wave heights in the wave groups, as much as the presence of the forced and free long waves induced by the groupiness. The equilibrium state model concept can provide a heuristic explanation of the influence of the wave groups on the bulk beach profile response if their effective relative fall velocity is larger than that of monochromatic waves with the same incident energy flux.  相似文献   

Appraisal of storm beach buffer width for cyclonic waves     

F.-C. Lee  John R.-C. Hsu  W.-H. Lin 《Coastal Engineering》2011

The loss of beach sand from berm and dune due to high waves and surge is a universal phenomenon associated with sporadic storm activities. To protect the development in a coastal hazard zone, hard structures or coastal setback have been established in many countries around the world. In this paper, the requirement of a storm beach buffer, being a lesser extent landward comparing with the coastal setback to ensure the safety of infrastructures, is numerically assessed using the SBEACH model for three categories of wave conditions in terms of storm return period, median sand grain size, berm width, and design water level. Two of the key outputs from the numerical calculations, berm retreat and bar formation offshore, are then analysed, as well as beach profile change. After having performed a series of numerical studies on selected large wave tank (LWT) test results with monochromatic waves using SBEACH, we may conclude that: (1) Berm erosion increases and submerged bar develops further offshore as the storm return period increases for beach with a specific sand grain size, or as the sand grain reduces on a beach under the action of identical wave condition; (2) Higher storm waves yield a large bar to form quicker and subsequently cause wave breaking on the bar crest, which can reduce the wave energy and limit the extent of the eroding berm; (3) A larger buffer width is required for a beach comprising small sand grain, in order to effectively absorb storm wave energy; and (4) Empirical relationships can be tentatively proposed to estimate the storm beach buffer width, from the input of wave conditions and sediment grain size. These results would benefit a beach nourishment project for shore protection or design of a recreational beach.  相似文献   

象山皇城海滩稳定性分析与防护对策     

童宵岭  时连强  夏小明  程林  姜呈浩 《海洋科学》2015,39(9):57-61

以浙江岬湾砂质海岸象山皇城海滩为例,运用抛物线模型,分析得出皇城海滩的冲淤演化动态,并通过历史岸线形态对比探讨皇城海塘对其的影响,最终提出防止海岸侵蚀的对策。研究结果表明,皇城海滩北部有一定的侵蚀,其平面形态还未达到静态平衡,处于不稳定状态;皇城海滩北段海塘修建得过于靠海,致使海滩最重要的泥沙补给源——后滨沙丘被阻断,甚至消失,同时大潮水位可直接淹没海塘堤脚,加上海塘前为近破波,滩面水流和泥沙运动剧烈,最终导致堤前滩面的冲刷。基于此,防止海岸侵蚀的最佳对策是在拆除、重建海滩北部部分海塘后再进行适当的海滩养护。通过对皇城海滩的稳定性研究,了解海塘建设的影响,可为浙江岬湾海滩资源的合理开发、海岸防护工程建设提供一定的科学依据。  相似文献   

Air-sea CO₂ exchange of beach and near-coastal waters of the Chukchi Sea near Barrow, Alaska     

Hiroki Ikawa  Walter C. Oechel 《Continental Shelf Research》2011,31(13):1357-1364

Partial pressure of CO₂ in equilibrium with sample water (pCO₂) for the coastal water in the Chukchi Sea was continuously observed in summer, 2008. Average daily CO₂ flux calculated from the pCO₂ and gas transfer coefficients ranged from −0.144 to −0.0701 g C m⁻² day⁻¹ depending on which gas transfer coefficient was used. The pCO₂ before the landfast ice sheets melted appeared to be highly biologically controlled based on the following information: (1) the diurnal pattern of pCO₂ was strongly correlated with Photosynthetic Photon Flux Density (PPFD); (2) high chlorophyll density was observed during periods of peak uptake; and (3) the day-to-day variation in the pCO₂ strongly correlated with the presence or absence of near-shore ice sheets. The lowest pCO₂ of 35 ppm together with the highest PPFD of 1362 μmol E m⁻² s⁻¹ were observed in the afternoon on June 28 in the presence of sea ice. The very low pCO₂ observed in late June was likely caused by high photosynthetic rates related to high phytoplankton densities typically observed from spring to early summer near the ice edge, and by water low in salinity and CO₂ released by melting sea ice early in the season.  相似文献   

Role of geological inheritance in Australian beach morphodynamics     

Andrew D. Short 《Coastal Engineering》2010

The Australian coast contains 10,685 beaches which occupy 49% of the 30,000 km coast and average 1.37 km in length. Their relatively short length is largely due to the presence of bedrock, calcarenite and laterite, which form boundaries to many of the beaches, as well as occurring as rocks, reefs and islands along and off the beaches. This geological inheritance plays a major role in Australian beach systems — determining their length and through wave refraction and attenuation influencing beach location, shape, type, morphodynamics and circulation, which in turn influence sediment transport and the backing dune and barrier systems. This paper uses a database covering every Australian beach to review the role of headlands, rocks and reefs on Australian beaches. Major effects are the short average beach length; reduction in breaker height resulting in lower energy beach types; wave refraction resulting in increased beach curvature; the presence of topographic rips on moderate and higher energy beaches and megarips during high wave conditions; and the interruption of and/or trapping of longshore sand transport leading to beach rotation.  相似文献   

未来海平面上升对厦门海滩侵蚀的测算   总被引：2，自引：2，他引：0  

陈坚  谢在团 《台湾海峡》1998,17(4):391-395

本文通过波浪计算和理论海滩剖面方程的拟合，以Ｂｒｕｕｎ模式为基础，根据Ｅｖｅｒｔｓ剖面积分方法，测算了厦门厦门大学海滨浴场、鼓浪屿港 仔后海滨浴场沙滩未来１００ａ海平面上升引起的海滩后退量值。与此同时，计算了Ｂｒｕｕｎ模式的结果。计算结果表明，两处海滨浴 滩的后退值分别为１４．８１和１３．９５ｍ与Ｂｒｕｕｎ模式的结果相当接近。  相似文献   

粤东南澳岛青澳海滩侵蚀退化风险评价及其安全调控     

李平  杜军  张志卫  徐国强 《海洋科学进展》2020,38(1):171-181

分析了南澳岛海滩资源储量、空间分布及其开发利用现状,开展海岛海滩侵蚀风险评价,选择青澳海滩开展岸滩及其海湾海床地形、沉积物、动力泥沙调查,分析探讨了青澳海滩泥沙动力沉积特征,灾变退化过程机制,并从海滩稳定性和游客安全角度给出安全调控建议。结果表明:1)南澳岛海滩资源储量与侵蚀风险区域分异特征明显,其中青澳海滩旅游活动频繁、开发强度大,侵蚀退化风险等级高,人为破坏干扰抑制滩海泥沙交换,无序无度占滩开发与利用破坏了海滩自然演化进程,短期过量旅游活动加速海滩侵蚀退化进程;2)青澳湾沉积物以粗粒砂为主,沙源供给不足,不同岸段岸线进退与岸滩蚀淤与海滩方位、波浪动力强度强弱关系密切,具有明显的纵向沉积地貌分带特征。湾内落潮优势流(SE)优于涨潮(NW),对泥沙输运进入湾内具有抑制作用,潮周期海湾泥沙自湾内向湾外输运,泥沙以外输为主单宽输沙为3 400 t;3)青澳海滩存在严重的"无序占滩建筑,污水肆意排放,管理不规范"等问题,监测评价亦表明侵蚀退化风险巨大,游客安全面临着风险隐患,建议青澳海滩实行以生态化养护开发和"游客为中心"为理念的安全调控措施,设立红线及安全标示。该研究为岛礁生态建设、海岛保护及修复提供科学依据。  相似文献   

Nonlinear transfer function modelling of beach morphology at Duck,North Carolina     

Y. Gunawardena  S. Ilic  H. Pinkerton  R. Romanowicz 《Coastal Engineering》2009

This paper presents a simple nonlinear data-based modelling approach for predicting the beach profile volume at Duck, North Carolina, USA. The state-dependent parameter form of the general transfer function (SDP TF) model is used to describe nonlinearity influencing these morphological data in two case examples. Case 1 investigates the nonlinearity associated with the dependency of wave forcing on the preceding beach volume. Case 2 investigates the ability to model the variables within the well-known diffusion equation for beach volume using this data-based approach. The results of this study show that the SDP TF approach can be used successfully to develop statistically robust models for describing nonlinearity in beach morphological systems. Furthermore, these models are shown to predict the beach volumes over both short (1 month ahead) and long (2 years ahead) time periods, and thus show great potential for practical applications in coastal zone management and engineering.  相似文献   

Lagrangian measurements and modelling of fluid advection in the inner surf and swash zones     

T.E. Baldock  A. KudoP.A. Guard  J.M. AlsinaM.P. Barnes 《Coastal Engineering》2008

New laboratory and field data are presented on fluid advection into the swash zone. The data illustrate the region of the inner surf zone from which sediment can be directly advected into the swash zone during a single uprush, which is termed the advection length. Experiments were conducted by particle tracking in a Lagrangian reference frame, and were performed for monochromatic breaking waves, solitary bores, non-breaking solitary waves and field conditions. The advection length is normalised by the run-up length to give an advection ratio, A, and different advection ratios are identified on the basis of the experimental data. The data show that fluid enters the swash zone from a region of the inner surf zone that can extend a distance seaward of the bore collapse location that is approximately equal to half of the run-up length. This region is about eight times wider than the region predicted by the classical swash solution of Shen and Meyer [Shen, M.C., Meyer, R.E., 1963. Climb of a bore on a beach. Part 3. Runup. Journal of Fluid Mechanics 16, 113–125], as illustrated by Pritchard and Hogg [Pritchard, D., Hogg, A.J., 2005. On the transport of suspended sediment by a swash event on a plane beach. Coastal Engineering 52, 1–23]. Measured advection ratios for periodic waves show no significant trend with Iribarren number, consistent with self-similarity in typical swash flows. The data are compared to recent characteristic solutions of the non-linear shallow water wave (NLSW) equations and both finite difference and finite volume solutions of the NLSW equations.  相似文献