工程养护海滩对"803"风暴潮的响应过程研究     

朱磊  杨燕雄  杨雯  房克照 《海洋通报》2019,38(1):102-14

研究养护海滩对风暴潮的响应过程在人工养滩工程设计与施工中具有重要意义。老龙头养护海滩在竣工半个月后遭遇“803”风暴潮，导致岸滩滩肩最大蚀退 6.5 m，沙坝坝顶最大下蚀 1.2 m。在现场测量的基础上，利用 XBeach 建立风暴潮过程 的老龙头海滩海床演变模型，研究结果表明： （1） XBeach 模拟结果与实际地形变化侵淤趋势一致，风暴潮期间人工沙坝均向岸移动，但模拟结果的侵蚀程度更大，海滩响应更加剧烈； （2） 强浪条件下人工沙坝的透射系数为 0.29~0.42，常浪条件下透射系数为 0.45~0.95，因而人工沙坝在大浪条件下掩护作用更佳； （3） 风暴潮期间人工沙坝附近破波显著，坝顶流速明显增大，最大可达 1.21 m/s，是无人工沙坝情况下的 2.3 倍，而在人工沙坝向岸侧，因波能提前耗散，流速减为 0.28 m/s，是无人工沙坝时的 0.4 倍，且没有产生离岸流。老龙头养护工程整体泥沙损失较少，易于恢复.  相似文献   

Morphodynamic assessment of side channel systems using a simple one‐dimensional bifurcation model and a comparison with aerial images          下载免费PDF全文

R. Pepijn van Denderen  Ralph M. J. Schielen  Astrid Blom  Suzanne J. M. H. Hulscher  Maarten G. Kleinhans 《地球表面变化过程与地形》2018,43(6):1169-1182

Side channel construction is a common intervention applied to increase a river's conveyance capacity and to increase its ecological value. Past modelling efforts suggest two mechanisms affecting the morphodynamic change of a side channel: (1) a difference in channel slope between the side channel and the main channel and (2) bend flow just upstream of the bifurcation. The objective of this paper was to assess the conditions under which side channels generally aggrade or degrade and to assess the characteristic timescales of the associated morphological change. We use a one‐dimensional bifurcation model to predict the development of side channel systems and the characteristic timescale for a wide range of conditions. We then compare these results to multitemporal aerial images of four side channel systems. We consider the following mechanisms at the bifurcation to be important for side channel development: sediment diversion due to the bifurcation angle, sediment diversion due to the transverse bed slope, partitioning of suspended load, mixed sediment processes such as sorting at the bifurcation, bank erosion, deposition due to vegetation, and floodplain sedimentation. There are limitations to using a one‐dimensional numerical model as it can only account for these mechanisms in a parametrized manner, but the model reproduces general behaviour of the natural side channels until floodplain‐forming processes become important. The main result is a set of stability diagrams with key model parameters that can be used to assess the development of a side channel system and the associated timescale, which will aid in the future design and maintenance of side channel systems. © 2017 The Authors. Earth Surface Processes and Landforms published by John Wiley & Sons Ltd.  相似文献   

Offshore aeolian sediment transport across a human‐modified foredune          下载免费PDF全文

Karl F. Nordstrom  Nancy L. Jackson 《地球表面变化过程与地形》2018,43(1):195-201

Concepts derived from previous studies of offshore winds on natural dunes are evaluated on a dune maintained for shore protection during three offshore wind events. The potential for offshore winds to form a lee‐side eddy on the backshore or transfer sediment from the dune and berm crest to the water are evaluated, as are differences in wind speed and sediment transport on the dune crest, berm crest and a pedestrian access gap. The dune is 18–20 m wide near the base and has a crest 4.5 m above backshore elevation. Two sand‐trapping fences facilitate accretion. Data were obtained from wind vanes on the crest and lee of the dune and anemometers and sand traps placed across the dune, on the beach berm crest and in the access gap. Mean wind direction above the dune crest varied from 11 to 3 deg from shore normal. No persistent recirculation eddy occurred on the 12 deg seaward slope. Wind speed on the berm crest was 85–89% of speed at the dune crest, but rates of sediment transport were 2.27 times greater during the strongest winds, indicating that a wide beach overcomes the transport limitation of a dune barrier. Limited transport on the seaward dune ramp indicates that losses to the water are mostly from the backshore, not the dune. The seaward slope gains sand from the landward slope and dune crest. Sand fences causing accretion on the dune ramp during onshore winds lower the seaward slope and reduce the likelihood of detached flows during offshore winds. Transport rates are higher in access gaps than on the dune crest despite lower wind speeds because of flatter slopes and absence of vegetation. Transport rates across dunes and through gaps can be reduced using vegetation and raised walkover structures. Copyright © 2017 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

An interpretation of wave refraction and its influence on foreshore sediment distribution     

Joevivek Vincent Jayaraj  Chandrasekar Nainarpandian  Jayangondaperumal Ramakrishnan  Thakur Vikram Chandr  Shree Purniema Krishnan 《海洋学报(英文版)》2019,38(5):151-160

To analyze the grain size and depositional environment of the foreshore sediments, a study was undertaken on wave refraction along the wide sandy beaches of central Tamil Nadu coast. The nearshore waves approach the coast at 45° during the northeast(NE) monsoon, at 135° during the southwest(SW) monsoon and at 90° during the non-monsoon or fair-weather period with a predominant wave period of 8 and 10 s. A computer based wave refraction pattern is constructed to evaluate the trajectories of shoreward propagating waves along the coast in different seasons. The convergent wave rays during NE monsoon, leads to high energy wave condition which conveys a continuous erosion at foreshore region while divergent and inept condition of rays during the SW and non-monsoon, leads to moderate and less energy waves that clearly demarcates the rebuilt beach sediments through littoral sediment transport. The role of wave refraction in foreshore deposits was understood by grain size and depositional environment analysis. The presence of fine grains with the mixed population, during the NE monsoon reveals that the high energy wave condition and sediments were derived from beach and river environment. Conversely, the presence of medium grains with uniform population, during SW and non-monsoon attested less turbulence and sediments were derived from prolong propagation of onshore-offshore wave process.These upshots are apparently correlated with the in situ beach condition. On the whole, from this study it is understood that beaches underwent erosion during the NE monsoon and restored its original condition during the SW and non-monsoon seasons that exposed the stability of the beach and nearshore condition.  相似文献   

The role of salinity in fluvio-deltaic morphodynamics: A long-term modelling study     

Zeng Zhou  Luying Chen  Jianfeng Tao  Zheng Gong  Leicheng Guo  Mick van der Wegen  Ian Townend  Changkuan Zhang 《地球表面变化过程与地形》2020,45(3):590-604

Salinity difference between terrestrial river discharge and oceanic tidal water plays a role in modifying the local flow field and, as a consequence, estuarine morphodynamics. Although widely recognized, recent numerical studies exploring the long-term morphological evolution of river-influenced estuaries with two-dimensional, depth-averaged models have mostly neglected salinity. Using a three-dimensional morphodynamic model, we aim to gain more insight into the effect of salinity on the morphodynamics of fluvio-deltaic systems. Model results indicate that the resultant estuarine morphology established after 600 years differs remarkably when a salinity gradient is included. A fan-shaped river-mouth delta exhibits less seaward expansion and is cut through by narrower channels when salinity is included. The inclusion of salinity tends to generate estuarine circulation, which favours landward sediment transport and hence limits the growth of the delta while enhancing the development of intertidal areas. The formation of deltaic channel–shoal patterns resulting from morphodynamic evolution tends to strengthen salinity stratification, which is characterized by an increased gradient Richardson number. The direction of the depth-averaged residual sediment transport over a tide may be opposite to the direction of residual velocity, indicating the significant influence of baroclinic effects on the net sediment transport direction (and hence morphological change). The effect of salinity on morphological evolution becomes less profound when the strength of tidal or fluvial forcing is dominant over the other. The effects of sediment type and flocculation, which are particularly important when salinity gradients are present, are also discussed. Overall, this study highlights that neglecting salinity to simulate long-term estuarine morphodynamics requires more careful justification, particularly when the environment is characterized by fine sediment types (favouring suspended transport), and relatively large river discharge and estuarine depth (favouring baroclinic effects). © 2020 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

海岸波浪多次破碎波能耗散模型   总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1  

闫圣  邹志利 《海洋学报》2020,42(9):30-37

在坡度很缓(接近或小于1∶100)的海岸，波浪在向海岸传播的过程中，可能经历多次破碎，而在两次波浪破碎之间将伴随着波浪恢复(波浪恢复到不破碎状态)。在现有海岸波高计算模型中，波浪破碎是通过波能耗散来模拟的，但所采用的波能耗散模型都不能自动考虑波浪出现多次破碎的过程，特别精确模拟这一过程中出现的波浪恢复。本文提出了解决这一问题的新的波能耗散模型，模型的建立是通过在Dally模型中重新建立稳定波能、饱和波高水深比和波能耗散系数，并引入了波浪恢复的判断条件实现的。该模型的波能耗散在波浪恢复区的值很小故能描述波浪恢复区的波浪运动。与实验结果的对比表明，新模型可以适合缓坡情况波浪多次破碎的波高模拟，而且对不同坡度的平坡和沙坝海岸(1∶100～1∶10)的破碎波模拟都可以给出与实验结果符合的结果，并且可以自动识别多次波浪破碎的存在和波浪恢复的发生。  相似文献   

日照海岸带沙滩侵蚀现状及沉积物粒度特征分析     

种衍飞  郝义 《海洋地质前沿》2020,36(1):19-29

通过对日照市海岸带2个重点沙滩的现场调查和沉积物粒度计算,综合分析了沙滩的侵蚀现状和粒度参数特征。海滨国家森林公园沙滩北部和南部处于侵蚀状态,中部为缓慢淤积状态;万平口海水浴场沙滩北部、中部总体呈侵蚀趋势,南部为淤积状态。海滨国家森林公园沙滩的平均粒径总体要小于万平口海水浴场沙滩,这与两沙滩的坡度不同有关,平均粒径从滩肩到低潮线逐渐变小。海滨国家森林公园沙滩的分选性要好于万平口海水浴场沙滩,分选系数具有由陆向海、由北向南逐渐变小的趋势。沙滩的滩肩和滩面处频率曲线主要为双峰,峰态平坦,物质来源复杂,低潮线处频率曲线主要为单峰,峰态尖锐,物质来源单一。  相似文献   

Numerical modeling of flow and morphology induced by a solitary wave on a sloping beach     

《Applied Ocean Research》2019

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Prograded coastal barriers provide paleoenvironmental records of storms and sea level during late Quaternary highstands          下载免费PDF全文

Amy J. Dougherty 《第四纪科学杂志》2018,33(5):501-517

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Morphological and sedimentary features of sandy-muddy transitional beaches in estuaries and bays along mesotidal to macrotidal coasts     

Shaohua Zhao  Hongshuai Qi  Feng Cai  Jun Zhu  Xiang Zhou  Gang Lei 《地球表面变化过程与地形》2020,45(7):1660-1676

Sandy-muddy transitional beaches (SMT-Beaches), representing the transition from sandy beaches to tidal mudflats, should theoretically develop very different morphological and sedimentological characteristics in river estuaries and in semi-enclosed bays due to their contrasting dynamic sedimentary environments. Evidence, however, is rare in the scientific literature. To reveal these morphological and sedimentary differences, the sand–mud transition (SMT) boundary distribution, beach profiles, and surface and downcore sediment grain-size compositions of 27 SMT-Beaches located along mesotidal to macrotidal coasts of the western Taiwan Strait, southeastern China, were investigated. The results show that typical estuarine SMT-Beaches are mainly characterized by an ambiguous SMT, a long distance between the SMT and the coastline (31–302 m), lower SMT and inflection point altitudes (average –0.76 m and –0.04 m), and lower upper beach gradients (~0.068) with fine sand. Estuarine SMT-Beach sediments display clear interbedded mud and sand layers, implying potential SMT migrations over various timescales. By contrast, typical bay SMT-Beaches are characterized by distinct SMT, a short distance between the SMT and the coastline (11–52 m), higher SMT and inflection point altitudes (~0.24 m and ~0.35 m), and narrower upper beaches with higher gradients (~0.095) and coarse sand. Bay SMT-Beaches present relatively stable sedimentary sequences and a narrow gravel belt surrounding the inflection point and/or SMT. These morphological and sedimentary differences between the two SMT-Beach types are initially constrained by sediment supply and transport and are further affected by tide conditions and wave climate. Sediment supply and transport predominately control the sediment structures, while the tidal range strongly influences spatial variations in SMT distances. Wave climate normally drives SMT altitude variations. This study highlights the morphological and sedimentary differences in SMT-Beaches in estuaries and bays, providing important knowledge for further revealing their morphodynamic processes and potential future nourishment. © 2020 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献