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1.
According to the theoretical solutions for the nonlinear three-dimensional gravity surface waves and their interactions with vertical wall previously proposed by the lead author, in this paper an exact second-order random model of the unified wave motion process for nonlinear irregular waves and their interactions with vertical wall in uniform current is formulated, the corresponding theoretical nonlinear spectrum is derived, and the digital simulation model suitable to the use of the FFT (Fast Fourier Tansform) algorithm is also given. Simulations of wave surface, wave pressure, total wave pressure and its moment are performed. The probability properties and statistical characteristics of these realizations are tested, which include the verifications of normality for linear process and of non-normality for nonlinear process; the consistances of the theoretical spectra with simulated ones; the probability properties of apparent characterstics, such as amplitudes, periods, and extremes (maximum and minimum, positive and negative extremes). The statistical analysis and comparisons demonstrate that the proposed theoretical and computing models are realistic and effective, the estimated spectra are in good agreement with the theoretical ones, and the probability properties of the simulated waves are similar to those of the sea waves. At the same time, the simulating computation can be completed rapidly and easily.  相似文献
2.
The reflection of regular and irregular waves from a partially perforated caisson breakwater with a rock-filled core is examined. The present mathematical model is developed by means of the matched eigenfunction method. Numerical results of the present model are compared with the experimental data of different researchers. Numerical examples are given to examine the effect of rock fill on the reflection coefficient. The differences between regular and irregular waves are also investigated by means of theoretical and experimental results. It is found that the minimum reflection coefficient of irregular waves is larger than that of corresponding regular waves, but the contrary is the case for the maximum reflection coefficient.  相似文献
3.
Experimental Study of Wave Energy Spectrum in Shallow Water   总被引:1,自引:1,他引:0  
Wave energy spectrum in shallow water can be studied in wind wave channel in combination with irregular wave- maker. Fetch length is successfully extended and by "Relay" method the corresponding spectrum pattern and the wind velocity scale are obtained.  相似文献
4.
不规则波折射的数学模型   总被引:1,自引:1,他引:2  
本文对光易型方向函数中的集中度参数Smax进行了推算,得到了在不同底坡和入射角情况下,Smax~d/(Ls)。的关系曲线,从而较合理地给出了浅水区域的方向谱S(f,θ)。本文用谱分量的线性迭加法建立了不规则波折射的数值模式,计算了具有各种理论方向谱的不规则波在平行直线状等深线海滩上的折射。其结果得到了不规则波折射系数ksr的计算图。将所得的结果与用正弦波求得的值作了比较。另外,本文还探讨了方向谱的分割数与不规则波折射计算精度的关系,并对如何节省计算机时作了研究,从而确定了频率和方向的最佳分割数。  相似文献
5.
不规则波浪数值水槽的造波和阻尼消波   总被引:1,自引:1,他引:12  
高学平  曾广冬  张亚 《海洋学报》2002,24(2):127-132
利用MAC(market and cell)法直接数值求解连续方程和N-S方程。为模拟不规则波长时段连续造波及消除波浪遇结构物后形成的二次反射,采用了源造波法。对开敞边界,采用了海绵阻尼消波和Sommerfeld条件相结合的处理方式。  相似文献
6.
斜向不规则波对直墙作用的实验研究   总被引:1,自引:1,他引:5  
通过长峰不规则波和方向波谱对直墙作用的实验研究 ,分别给出了每延米斜向不规则波波浪力与正向力之比 ,方向波谱波浪力与斜向长峰不规则波波浪力之间的关系 ,通过与规则波实验结果的比较给出了斜向规则波与不规则波波浪力之间的相对关系 ;并对斜向不规则波的反射系数与正向波时的变化作出了分析  相似文献
7.
多方向不规则波传播变形数值模拟   总被引:1,自引:1,他引:1  
潘军宁  左其华  王红川 《海洋工程》2004,22(3):14-19,29
在推广的缓坡方程数学模型基础上建立了多方向不规则波数学模型,综合考虑了波浪折射、绕射、反射、底摩擦和风能输入等因素。基于线性波浪理论,将波浪方向谱在频率和方向上按等能量分割法离散后,分别计算各组成波的传播变形,再计算合成波要素。缓坡方程数学模型采用改进的ADI法求解,计算效率高,稳定性好。采用椭圆形浅滩不规则波模型试验结果和单突堤不规则波绕射理论解对数学模型进行了验证,数值模拟结果和试验值及理论解符合良好。利用该模型进行了某港港内波浪折射、绕射和反射的联合数值模拟,给出了合理的港内波高分布。  相似文献
8.
This paper considers the nonlinear transformation of irregular waves propagating over a mild slope (1:40). Two cases of irregular waves, which are mechanically generated based on JONSWAP spectra, are used for this purpose. The results indicate that the wave heights obey the Rayleigh distribution at the offshore location; however, in the shoaling region, the heights of the largest waves are underestimated by the theoretical distributions. In the surf zone, the wave heights can be approximated by the composite Weibull distribution. In addition, the nonlinear phase coupling within the irregular waves is investigated by the wavelet-based bicoherence. The bicoherence spectra reflect that the number of frequency modes participating in the phase coupling increases with the decreasing water depth, as does the degree of phase coupling. After the incipient breaking, even though the degree of phase coupling decreases, a great number of higher harmonic wave modes are also involved in nonlinear interactions. Moreover, the summed bicoherence indicates that the frequency mode related to the strongest local nonlinear interactions shifts to higher harmonics with the decreasing water depth.  相似文献
9.
A series of regular and irregular wave experiments are conducted to study the reflective and transmitting performances of quarter circular breakwater (QCB) in comparison with those of semi-circular breakwater (SCB). Based on regular wave tests, the reflection and transmission characteristics of QCB are analyzed and a few influencing factors are investigated. Then, the wave energy dissipation as wave passing over the breakwater is discussed based on the hydraulic coefficients of QCB and SCB. In irregular wave experiments, the reflection coefficients of QCB and their spectrums are studied. Finally, the comparisons between the experimental results and numerical simulations for QCB under regular and irregular wave conditions are presented.  相似文献
10.
In actual sea states, damage to offshore floating structures is usually caused by a few extreme waves or wave groups in an irregular wave train. Accurate simulation of the irregular wave trains can lay a solid foundation for understanding the local flow field and impact loads that would potentially cause such damage. This paper describes how the generation of a single extreme wave was investigated. Determination of the wave-maker motion for generating specified irregular wave trains is the key to this work. First, an experimental irregular wave train was decomposed into a certain number of small-amplitude waves. Fourier series expansion was performed to determine the amplitude and the initial phase angle of each wave component. Then a hydrodynamic transfer function was used to calculate the amplitude of the wave-maker motion associated with each wave component. Superposition was made on all the wave components to get the final wave-maker motion. During the numerical simulation, calculated horizontal velocity profiles of the extreme wave at different moments were analyzed and compared with experimental results, and a satisfactory agreement was obtained. In the simulation, VOF method was employed to capture the free surface, and a dissipation zone was used to deal with wave reflection.  相似文献
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