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1.
研究养护海滩对风暴潮的响应过程在人工养滩工程设计与施工中具有重要意义。老龙头养护海滩在竣工半个月后遭遇“803”风暴潮，导致岸滩滩肩最大蚀退 6.5 m，沙坝坝顶最大下蚀 1.2 m。在现场测量的基础上，利用 XBeach 建立风暴潮过程
的老龙头海滩海床演变模型，研究结果表明： （1） XBeach 模拟结果与实际地形变化侵淤趋势一致，风暴潮期间人工沙坝均向岸移动，但模拟结果的侵蚀程度更大，海滩响应更加剧烈； （2） 强浪条件下人工沙坝的透射系数为 0.29~0.42，常浪条件下透射系数为 0.45~0.95，因而人工沙坝在大浪条件下掩护作用更佳； （3） 风暴潮期间人工沙坝附近破波显著，坝顶流速明显增大，最大可达 1.21 m/s，是无人工沙坝情况下的 2.3 倍，而在人工沙坝向岸侧，因波能提前耗散，流速减为 0.28 m/s，是无人工沙坝时的 0.4 倍，且没有产生离岸流。老龙头养护工程整体泥沙损失较少，易于恢复. 相似文献
2.
通过物理模型实验研究了海岸沙坝剖面和滩肩剖面的形成和演化过程,给出了稳定的沙坝剖面和滩肩剖面的几何特征。实验中考虑了两种初始坡度(1∶20和1∶10)和不同波高的规则波和不规则波,讨论了不同初始坡度海岸上破碎波空间分布特征。结果表明,沙坝产生后存在向岸和离岸两种运动形态,但最终将停留在稳定位置。稳定的沙坝剖面对应不同初始坡度和波浪存在不同的大沙坝和小沙坝分布。沙坝剖面由长时间小波高波浪序列作用后可转化为稳定滩肩剖面,该剖面不依赖于波浪和初始坡度。实验也给出了平衡剖面与理论曲线的对比以及剖面上泥沙粒径的分布。 相似文献
3.
Bruno Castelle B. G. Ruessink Philippe Bonneton Vincent Marieu Nicolas Bruneau Timothy D. Price 《地球表面变化过程与地形》2010,35(7):771-781
Double sandbar systems are common morphological features along sandy, wave‐dominated, micro‐ to meso‐tidal coastlines. In the companion paper, we demonstrated how various alongshore inner‐bar rip‐channel patterns can develop through morphological coupling to an alongshore‐variable outer bar. The simulated coupling patterns are, however, scarcely observed in the field. Instead, inner‐bar rip channels more often possess remarkably smaller and more variable alongshore length scales, suggesting that coupling mechanisms do not play a substantial role in the overall double‐sandbar dynamics. Here we use a numerical model to show that the relative importance of self‐organization and morphological coupling changes in favour of the latter with an increase in waterdepth variability along the outer‐bar crest. Furthermore, we find that the typical alongshore variability in inner‐bar rip‐channel scale is indicative of a mixture of self‐organization and morphological coupling rather than self‐organization alone. Morphological coupling may thus be more important to understanding and predicting the evolution of inner‐bar rip channels than previously envisaged. Copyright © 2010 John Wiley and Sons, Ltd. 相似文献
4.
海岸裂流的研究进展及其展望 总被引：3，自引：2，他引：1
近岸裂流是海岸工程和海岸演变中非常重要的动力因素,对污染物排放和游泳者安全有很重要的意义。详细回顾了国内外对海岸裂流方面的研究与进展,具体包括对裂流的实验室实验和现场观测测量技术、理论分析、裂流的形成机理以及数值模拟等方面,概述了该领域的研究现状与发展趋势。总结了已有研究存在的不足,提出了需要进一步研究的课题。 相似文献
5.
Nearshore sandbars are characteristic features of sandy surf zones and have been observed with a variety of geometries in cross-shore (e.g. location) and longshore direction (e.g. planform). Although the behaviour of sandbars has been studied extensively on spatial scales up to kilometres and timescales up to years, it remains challenging to observe and explain their behaviour on larger spatial and temporal scales, especially in locations where coastline curvature can be prominent. In this paper, we study a data set with 38 years of coastal profiles, collected with alongshore intervals of 50 m, along the 34 km-long curved sandy shoreline of Sylt island, Germany. Sylt's shoreline has an orientation difference of ~20° between the northern and southern half of the island. We found that the decadal coastal profiles on the southern half show features of a low-tide terrace and a sandbar located further from the shoreline (~441 m). On the nothern half, the sandbar was located closer to the shoreline (~267 m) and was less pronounced, while the profiles show transverse bar and rip features. The alongshore planform also differed systematically and significantly along the two island sides. The sandbar on the southern island half, with alongshore periodicity on a larger length scale (~2240 m), was coupled out-of-phase to the shoreline, while no phase coupling was observed for the sandbar with periodicity on a shorter length scale (~670 m) on the northern half. We related the observed geometric differences of the sandbars to the difference in the local wave climate along Sylt, imposed by the shoreline shape. Our observations imply that small alongshore variations in wave climate, due to the increasing shoreline curvature on larger spatial scales, can lead to significant alongshore differences in the decadal evolution of coastal profiles, sandbars and shorelines. © 2020 The Authors. Earth Surface Processes and Landforms published by John Wiley & Sons Ltd 相似文献
6.
Nearshore sandbars, located in <10 m water depth, can contain remarkably periodic alongshore undulations in both cross‐shore position and depth. In a double sandbar system, the alongshore spacing of these morphological patterns in the inner sandbar may be identical to those in the outer sandbar. Although this morphological coupling has been observed previously, its frequency and predominance remain unclear. In this paper, we use a 9.3‐year dataset of daily low‐tide time exposure images from the double‐barred beach at Surfers Paradise (Gold Coast, Australia) to analyse the temporal and spatial characteristics of morphological coupling within a double sandbar system. We distinguish five types of morphological coupling between the inner and outer sandbars, of which four coincide with a downstate progression of the outer bar. Coupling is either in‐phase (with a landward perturbation of the inner bar facing an outer‐bar horn) or out‐of‐phase (with a seaward perturbation of the inner bar facing an outer‐bar horn), where the coupled inner‐bar features either consist of rip channels or, predominantly, perturbations of the low‐tide terrace. Cross‐correlation of the image‐derived inner‐ and outer‐bar patterns shows coupling to be a common phenomenon in the double sandbar system studied here, with coupling in 40% of the observations. In contrast to previous observations of sandbar–shoreline coupling at single‐barred beaches, in‐phase coupling (85% of all coupled bar patterns) predominates over out‐of‐phase coupling (15%). Based on our observations and bathymetries assimilated from the images for a restricted set of coupling events, we hypothesize that the angle of offshore wave incidence, wave height and depth variations along the outer sandbar determine the type of flow pattern (cell circulations versus meandering currents) above the inner bar and hence steer the type of coupling. Copyright © 2012 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd. 相似文献
7.
Jayme M. Santangelo Adriana de M. Rocha Reinaldo L. Bozelli Luciana S. Carneiro Francisco de A. Esteves 《Estuarine, Coastal and Shelf Science》2007,71(3-4):657-668
The effects of a disturbance by sandbar opening on the zooplankton community were evaluated through a long-term study in an eutrophic and oligohaline system, Imboassica Lagoon, Rio de Janeiro, Brazil. Zooplankton samples and limnological data were collected monthly from March 2000 to February 2003. Before the sandbar was opened in February 2001, the lagoon showed eutrophic conditions, with high mean nutrient concentrations and low salinity (total nitrogen – TN = 190.28 μM, chlorophyll a content – Chl. a = 104.60 μg/L and salinity = 0.87′). During this period, the zooplankton species present, such as the rotifers Brachionus calyciflorus and Brachionus havanaensis, were typical of freshwater to oligohaline and eutrophic environments. After the sandbar opening, the lagoon changed to a lower trophic status and increased salinity (TN = 55.11 μM, Chl. a = 27.56 μg/L and salinity = 19.64′). As a result, the zooplankton community came to consist largely of the rotifer Brachionus plicatilis, marine copepods and meroplanktonic larvae, mainly Gastropoda. Salinity was the main force structuring the zooplankton community after the sandbar opening. Two years after this episode, the prior zooplankton community had not reestablished itself, indicating a low resilience to this disturbance. The conditions developed prior to a sandbar opening can be crucial to the community responses in the face of this disturbance and for the capacity of the original zooplankton community to re-establish itself. 相似文献
8.
闽江河口沉积结构与沉积作用 总被引：9，自引：0，他引：9
结合已有的闽江河口航道整治研究成果，在该河口采集了130多个表层沉积物样品。根据对沉积结构、河口沙坝类型和水动力条件的分析，探讨了闽江河口沉积物的分布规律和沉积作用机制。研究结果表明，1）闽江河口可划分为砂质、混合和泥质3个沉积区，它们分别代表三角洲前缘、前缘斜坡和前三角洲沉积环境；2）闽江河口各汊道径、潮流强度对比不同，河口沉积过程有显著差异。径流在川石水道的发育中居主导作用，潮流是塑造梅花水道的主要因素；3）河口沙坝类型受制于输出水流的扩散形式，闽江河口有多种类型的河口沙坝，川石水道的河口沙坝为水下突堤型，乌猪水道北侧发育了水下突堤型沙坝，熨斗水道为拦门沙型河口沙坝，梅花水道则是潮流脊型的河口沙坝。 相似文献
9.
1979年以来南黄海辐射沙洲潮滩脊线时空变化研究 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
基于遥感和GIS技术,提取了南黄海辐射沙洲1979年、1990年、2002年和2014年4个时期的潮滩脊线,并对时空变化特征进行系统分析。研究显示：① 辐射沙洲潮滩脊线可分为主线和支线2级,滩脊主线为条子泥-高泥-东沙潮滩脊线,支线为滩脊主线两侧分支;② 辐射沙洲潮滩脊线空间组合形态总体稳定,条子泥段滩脊主线总体呈东西向,东沙段滩脊主线总体呈南北向,高泥段滩脊主线连接条子泥和东沙;③ 滩脊线演变呈显著空间分异,条子泥段滩脊主线南向迁移显著,东沙段和高泥段滩脊主线总体向东迁移,迁移距离条子泥段滩脊主线>高泥段、东沙段,条子泥段滩脊主线中部>两侧、东沙段滩脊主线北段>南段,条子泥滩脊支线形态和位置变化均较东沙滩脊支线显著。 相似文献
10.
建立了波浪、底部离岸流、泥沙运动和沙滩剖面演变耦合数学模型,模拟了实验室中波浪作用下沙坝剖面的形成过程,讨论了各个物理参数对剖面上的水动力和地形变化的影响。通过参数率定,较好地复演了不规则波作用下沙滩地形由均匀斜坡向沙坝剖面的演变,波高、底部离岸流、输沙率和剖面演变的计算结果与实测数据吻合良好。采用数值实验和误差分析方法,讨论了破碎波水滚倾角、泥沙扩散系数和床面休止角等物理参数对计算结果的影响。研究表明,所建立的模型能较好地描述波浪作用下沙坝剖面形成过程中的重要物理机制。 相似文献