Spatio-temporal characteristics of small-scale wave–current ripples on the Ameland ebb-tidal delta     

Laura Brakenhoff  Maarten Kleinhans  Gerben Ruessink  Maarten van der Vegt 《地球表面变化过程与地形》2020,45(5):1248-1261

Ebb-tidal deltas are highly dynamic environments affected by both waves and currents that approach the coast under various angles. Among other bedforms of various scales, these hydrodynamics create small-scale bedforms (ripples), which increase the bed roughness and will therefore affect hydrodynamics and sediment transport. In morphodynamic models, sediment transport predictions depend on the roughness height, but the accuracy of these predictors has not been tested for field conditions with strongly mixed (wave–current dominated) forcing. In this study, small-scale bedforms were observed in the field with a 3D Profiling Sonar at five locations on the Ameland ebb-tidal delta, the Netherlands. Hydrodynamic conditions ranged from wave dominated to current dominated, but were mixed most of the time. Small-scale ripples were found on all studied parts of the delta, superimposed on megaripples. Even though a large range of hydrodynamic conditions was encountered, the spatio-temporal variations in small-scale ripple dimensions were relatively small (height 0.015 m, length 0.11 m). Also, the ripples were always highly three-dimensional. These small dimensions are probably caused by the fact that the bed consists of relatively fine sediment. Five bedform height predictors were tested, but they all overestimated the ripple heights, partly because they were not created for small grain sizes. Furthermore, the predictors all have a strong dependence on wave- and current-related velocities, whereas the ripple heights measured here were only related to the near-bed orbital velocity. Therefore, ripple heights and lengths in wave–current-dominated, fine-grained coastal areas ( mm) may be best estimated by constant values rather than values dependent on the hydrodynamics. In the case of the Ameland ebb-tidal delta, these values were found to be m and m. ©2019 The Authors. Earth Surface Processes and Landforms published by John Wiley & Sons Ltd.  相似文献   

Tide-induced variability in beach surface moisture: Observations and modelling     

Laura B. Brakenhoff  Yvonne Smit  Jasper J. A. Donker  Gerben Ruessink 《地球表面变化过程与地形》2019,44(1):317-330

The moisture content w_s of a beach surface strongly controls the availability of sand for aeolian transport. Our predictive capability of the spatiotemporal variability in w_s, which depends to a large extent on water table depth, is, however, limited. Here we show that water table fluctuations and surface moisture content observed during a 10-day period on a medium-grained (365μm) planar (1:30) beach can be predicted well with the nonlinear Boussinesq equation extended to include run-up infiltration and a soil–water retention curve under the assumption of hydrostatic equilibrium. On the intertidal part of the beach the water table is observed and predicted to continuously fall from the moment the beach surface emerges from the falling tide to just before it is submerged by the incoming tide. We find that on the lower 30% of the intertidal beach the water table remains within 0.1–0.2 m from the surface and that the sand is always saturated (w_s≈20%, by mass). Higher up on the intertidal beach, the surface can dry to about 5% when the water table has fallen to 0.4–0.5 m beneath the surface. Above the high-tide level the water table is always too deep (>0.5 m) to affect surface moisture and, without precipitation, the sand is dry (w_s < 5 − 8%). Because the water table depth on the emerged part of the intertidal beach increases with time irrespective of whether the (ocean) tide falls or rises, we find no need to include hysteresis (wetting and drying) effects in the surface-moisture modelling. Model simulations suggest that at the present planar beach only the part well above mean sea level can dry sufficiently (w_s < 10%) for sand to become available for aeolian transport. ©2018 The Authors. Earth Surface Processes and Landforms published by John Wiley & Sons Ltd.  相似文献   

Characteristics of saw-tooth bars on the ebb-tidal deltas of the Wadden Islands     

Brakenhoff  Laura  Ruessink  Gerben  van der Vegt  Maarten 《Ocean Dynamics》2019,69(11):1273-1285

Saw-tooth bars are shore-oblique sand bars that are found along most ebb-tidal deltas of the Frisian Wadden Islands. Although they might significantly affect sediment transport pathways and volumes on the deltas, their general characteristics and dynamics are largely unknown. The main aim of this paper is to determine the typical saw-tooth bar heights, wave lengths, widths, orientations, migration rates and depths of occurrence. To this end, we analysed bathymetries from the Dutch and German Frisian Wadden Islands between 1970 and 2015. Bar heights range between 0.5 and 2 m, and wave lengths range between 300 and 900 m, with an average of 670 m, and the bar crests have a down contour orientation of approximately 25°. The bars are between 800 and 2200 m wide. Saw-tooth bars are located at depths from 3 to 12 m, depending on the slope of the area. Migration speeds of up to 112 m/year were found, using a spatial correlation method. Bar height and migration speed are positively linearly correlated, as well as bar wave length and bar width, bar height and the orientation of the depth contours and migration speed and the orientation of the area. The derived characteristics are compared to those of other bar types to evaluate hypotheses regarding the formation mechanism of the bars.

  相似文献