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A new technique for predicting long-term variations in estuary morphology is developed using a morphological evolution equation that isolates diffusive and non-diffusive processes in estuaries. The contribution from non-diffusive processes to the morphological changes of the estuary is incorporated in the governing equation by a source function. The source function is derived by solving an inverse problem using historic survey data of the Humber estuary, UK covering a period of 150 years. 相似文献
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A statistical–dynamical model for estuary morphodynamics is presented and demonstrated with a case study on the Humber Estuary,
UK. The model presented here is hybrid in nature where simplified process dynamics are combined with a data-driven approach.
The modelling methodology uses an inverse technique to construct an unknown source function in the model-governing equation,
using historic measurements of estuary bathymetry. Spatial and temporal variability of the source function was established
using empirical orthogonal eigenfunction analysis. Predictions of estuary morphology are obtained by extrapolating the temporal
coefficients of the EOFs, in order to construct a predicted source function which is then used in the hybrid morphodynamic
equation to obtain the predicted estuary morphology. The model was applied to predict the morphological evolution of the Humber
Estuary over a period of a decade. Predicted results were compared with measured bathymetry data. The results reveal that
the model captured the decadal scale morphodynamic response of the estuary with a good qualitative accuracy, despite the simplified
approach used in the model. The accuracy of model predictions can be greatly improved if high-frequency bathymetry data are
available. 相似文献
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The long-term morphodynamic response of estuarine systems to sea level rise and human interference has been studied using a Boolean network approach. The method uses Boolean variables to represent the different elements of the estuarine system, their inter-relationships and the external forcing. The response of a variable to a given change can be deduced from the corresponding Boolean function, which describes the feedbacks between that particular variable and the others in the network. This approach provides qualitative insights into the behaviour of estuary systems without the need for a detailed and quantitative specification of linkages between the various components of the system. 相似文献
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Low-frequency fluctuations on a reef coast are studied through a numerical model based on nonlinear conservation equations of mass and momentum. The model is used to investigate the long wave generation and propagation phenomena under both breaking and non-breaking incident short wave groups. The effects of incident wave characteristics and reef topography on the long wave phenomena are discussed. The results show that the long wave elevations on reef coasts are substantial, which explains the large water level fluctuations observed at certain occasions. 相似文献
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Harshinie Karunarathna Dominic E. Reeve Mark Spivack 《Continental Shelf Research》2009,29(18):2234-2239
Beach evolution models are normally applied in a prognostic fashion, with parameters and boundary conditions estimated from previous experience or other forecasts. Here, we use observations of beach profiles to solve a beach profile evolution equation in an inverse manner to determine model parameters and source function. The data used to demonstrate the method are from Christchurch Bay in Dorset, UK. It was found that there is a significant contribution from diffusive processes to the morphodynamic evolution of the beach profiles and that the development and disappearance of near-shore coastal features such as upper beach berms and inter- and sub-tidal bars are well captured by the source function in the governing equation. 相似文献
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Diffusion type formulations are commonly used in beach profile evolution models. The practical idea behind that is to map the behaviour of the beach profile onto a simple mathematical model that exhibits the same behaviour under defined operating conditions. The success of this approach is based on the accurate determination of key parameters in the diffusion model that govern its behaviour, using observed beach behaviour in the field. In order to determine these parameters, i.e. diffusion coefficient and a time and space varying source function, we used observations of historic beach profiles at Milford-on-Sea beach in Christchurch Bay, Dorset, United Kingdom. The relationship between the diffusion coefficient and Dean's equilibrium profile was investigated, leading to a new interpretation of the diffusion coefficient in terms of the sediment characteristics. The analysis also shows the significance of the diffusion process in the medium to long term evolution of the beach profile. A canonical correlation analysis (CCA) was undertaken in order to identify patterns of behaviour between wave conditions and source terms, and the possible correlations between them. The analysis provides strong evidence of a useful link between the source term in the simple dynamical equation and the distribution of wave steepness. 相似文献
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An experimental study of rip channel flow 总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2
Nils Drnen Harshinie Karunarathna Jrgen Fredse B. Mutlu Sumer Rolf Deigaard 《Coastal Engineering》2002,45(3-4)
A laboratory study of the flow over a bar with a single rip channel has been performed. First, the well-known pattern of a bar circulation cell with a strong offshore-directed current out through the rip channel and a weaker onshore-directed return flow over the bar is documented. Then measurements of the three-dimensional structure of the flow in the area where the rip channel, the bar and the trough meet and well inside the rip channel are presented. These measurements reveal that 3D effects play an important role, and that a depth-integrated viewpoint may not always be sufficient for predicting the flow in the near bed region. Particle-tracking experiments illustrate the near bed flow pattern over the entire area. These demonstrate how the overall trajectory pattern changes as a function of the distance of wave breaking from the bar crest: For some conditions, the rip current is fed from the trough and for other conditions it is fed directly from the bar. Both the 3D measurements and the trajectory tests show the existence of a weaker onshore-directed near-bed drift in the area where the rip current ceases. Finally, in a series of sensitivity tests, measurements of the rip current intensity for different wave climate and water level conditions reveal a strong correlation between the rip current intensity and the wave height (both normalized). 相似文献
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Low-frequency waves in the surf and swash zones on various beach slopes are discussed using numerical simulations. Simulated surface elevations of both primary waves and low-frequency waves across the surf zone were first compared with experimental data and good agreement found. Low-frequency wave characteristics are then discussed in terms of their physical nature and their relationship to the primary wave field on a series of sea bottom slopes. Unlike primary waves, low-frequency wave energy increases towards the shoreline. Low-frequency waves in the surf and swash are a function of incident waves and the sea bottom slope and hence the saturation level of the surf zone. Wave energy on a gently sloping beach is dominated by low-frequency waves while primary waves play a significant role on a steep beach. Low-frequency wave radiation from the surf zone on a given beach depends on primary wave frequency and beach slope. However, a very poor correlation was found between surf similarity parameter and low-frequency wave radiation. 相似文献
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