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Abstract A series of photographs are presented that illustrate the ripple form and the kinematics of suspended sediment in a wave field. The strong shear on the local upstream side of the ripples and the subsequent vortex development on the downstream side is illustrated. Sediment is visible in the body of the fluid above the bed to a height equal to about one‐half the wavelength of the ripples. 相似文献
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The performance at the Atlantic Remote Sensing Land Ocean Experiment (ARSLOE) of the Canada Centre for Inland Waters (CCIW) wave direction buoy is examined. The waveheight and period data show good agreement with data from neighboring buoys. Nondimensional energy and fetch for wind sea cases agree well with data collected from fixed sensors in Lake Ontario. Direction measurements for a particularly well-defined swell agree well with the Experimental Environmental Research Buoy (XERB) measurements. Meteorological data are compared with that collected at the XERB. Windspeed estimates are reasonably well-correlated and much of the scatter is due to the 24-kin separation between the buoys. There is some systematic bias in the wind direction estimates. 相似文献
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M. G. Skafel 《Coastal Engineering》1995,24(3-4)
The evolution of shorelines composed of consolidated cohesive sediments is dominated by irreversible erosion. In this note, measurements, under laboratory conditions, of bottom velocities, wave heights, and breaking characteristics over an actively eroding consolidated cohesive sediment shore are reported. Erosion is enhanced under breaking conditions, and plunging breakers are markedly more erosive than spilling breakers. The turbulence at the outer edge of the breaking zone has the −5/3 power high frequency dependence indicative of the inertial subrange. 相似文献
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Abstract A new approach to fetch‐limited wave studies is taken in this paper. Using data from five towers arranged along a line from the eastern shore of Lake St Clair, the differential growth between towers is explored as a function of local wave age. It is argued that this method avoids the usual fetch‐limited pitfall of inhomogeneity over long fetches and, in particular, the changes in wind speed downfetch of an abrupt roughness change. It is found that the growth rate decreases uniformly downfetch as the waves approach full development. This differential method leads to a smooth transition from rapidly growing short fetch waves to the asymptotic invariant state of full development. When the variation in wind speed after an abrupt (land to water) roughness change is taken into account, the idea of a universal fetch‐limited growth curve is called into question. 相似文献
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