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海洋学   3篇
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The basic features of higher harmonic waves were originally presented by Stokes in 1847 who showed that a 2nd-order regular wave would attain a higher, sharper crest and a flatter trough than the basic linear one. In this paper, these characteristics are investigated for an irregular wave train. This was done to make it possible to reproduce in a laboratory flume a wave train which has the correct profile and rms according to 2nd-order theory. The 2nd-order wave heights and the overall horizontal asymmetries of the wave train were calculated for a 1st-order PM and a Jonswap spectrum. The theoretical predictions show that the traditional wave generation in a laboratory flume which is based on linear theory produces free 2nd-order waves in addition to the bound 2nd-order waves described by Stokes. These free, parasitic waves incorrectly distort the shape of the waves and produce a varying rms as a function of distance from the wave paddle. In the 2nd-order theory presented in this paper, these free (parasitic) waves are calculated for the entire spectrum. Knowing these, they can be eliminated by compensating for them by using a 2nd-order control signal on the wave paddle. This is verified by a series of model tests which show that realistic wave profiles can be generated only by means of 2nd-order control signals. The theory and corresponding paddle control are presented for any type of translating, rotating or combined wave generator.  相似文献   
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During the last few years it has been shown that the results of model tests of harbour basins and moored ships are highly dependent on the correct reproduction of wave groups and the attached long waves. Although these bounded long waves are of second order and thus of a rather limited height, resonance and shoaling effects can increase their influence on the results of model investigations. In traditional first order wave generation, the boundary conditions at the wave board are not fulfilled for the bounded long waves, and consequently various spurious, free long waves are unintentionally produced. This paper outlines the general equations and the solution for a rotating and translating wave board. The translatory case is treated in detail, i.e. a physical interpretation of all the second order terms is given, and an approximate control signal for the suppression of spurious long waves for practical use is described. Finally, laboratory experiments successfully verify the various long wave terms and the effectiveness of the suppression terms.  相似文献   
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