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1.
A series of hydraulic model tests has been carried out in a glass wave flume to investigate the influences of wave height, wave period, wave steepness, surf similarity parameter, roughness, layer thickness and porosity on wave run-up and overtopping of 1:2 sloped impermeable and permeable breakwaters fronted by a 1:10 gentle, smooth beach slope. The analysis of results involves the correlation between the overtopping energy transfer with the relative wall height and the relationship between wave run-up and overtopping rate. Further, measured wave run-up and overtopping rates are compared with the results given in the Shore Protection Manual (1984), Automated Coastal Engineering System (1992)and results of other investigators. 相似文献
2.
Chen Guoping Yu Kuang-ming Zhang Jiachang Assistant Engineer River Harbour Department Nanjing Hydraulic Research Institute Nanjing
Prof. Senior Engineer River Harbour Department Nanjing Hydraulic Research Institute Nanjing
Senior Engineer River Harbour Department Nanjing Hydraulic Research Institute Nanjing 《中国海洋工程》1991,(4)
This paper discusses the effect of berm width and elevation of composite slope on irregular wave run-up. Based on the data obtained from model tests, the formula and distribution of irregular wave run-up on composite slope are derived. The changing of wind speed, width and elevation of the berm are considered comprehensively. The wave run-up with various exceedance probability can be es-timated utilizing the distribution curves of irregular wave run-up. 相似文献
3.
A finite-difference scheme and a modified marker-and-cell (MAC) algorithm have been developed to investigate the interactions of fully nonlinear waves with two- or three-dimensional structures of arbitrary shape. The Navier–Stokes (NS) and continuity equations are solved in the computational domain and the boundary values are updated at each time step by the finite-difference time-marching scheme in the framework of a rectangular coordinate system. The fully nonlinear kinematic free-surface condition is implemented by the marker-density function (MDF) technique developed for two fluid layers.To demonstrate the capability and accuracy of the present method, the numerical simulation of backstep flows with free-surface, and the numerical tests of the MDF technique with limit functions are conducted. The 3D program was then applied to nonlinear wave interactions with conical gravity platforms of circular and octagonal cross-sections. The numerical prediction of maximum wave run-up on arctic structures is compared with the prediction of the Shore Protection Manual (SPM) method and those of linear and second-order diffraction analyses based on potential theory and boundary element method (BEM). Through this comparison, the effects of non-linearity and viscosity on wave loading and run-up are discussed. 相似文献
4.
The paper is a report of the field campaign undertaken by an international team (Italian, French and Indonesian) a few weeks after the occurrence of a tsunami invading the south-eastern coast of Java (Indonesia) and it complements the results of a concurrent field survey by Asian and USA researchers. The tsunamigenic earthquake occurred on 3 of June 1994 in the Indian Ocean about 200 km south of Java. The tsunami caused severe damage and claimed many victims in some coastal villages. The main purpose of the survey was to measure the inundation and the runup values as well as to ascertain the possible morphological changes caused by the wave attacks. Attention was particularly focussed on the most affected districts, that is Lumajang, Jember and Banyuwangi in Java, although also the districts of Negera, Tebanan and Denpasar in Bali were examined. The most severe damage was observed in the Banyuwangi district, where the villages of Rajekwesi, Pancer and Lampon were almost completely levelled by the violent waves. Most places were hit by three significant waves with documented wave height often exceeding 5 m. The maximum runup value (9.50 m) was measured at Rajekwesi, where also the most impressive erosion phenomena could be found. In contrast, only in one place of the neighbouring island of Bali was there a slight tsunami, the rest of the island being practically unaffected. 相似文献
5.
An array of large concentric porous cylinder arrays is mounted in shallow water exposed to cnoidal waves. The interactions between waves and cylinders are studied theoretically using an eigenfunction expansion approach. Semi-analytical solutions of hydrodynamic loads and wave run-up on each cylinder are obtained using first approximation to cnoidal waves. The square array configuration of four-legged identical concentric porous cylinder is investigated in present study. Numerical results reveal the variation of dimensionless wave force and wave run-up on individual cylinder with angle of incidence, porosity parameter, spacing between outer and inner cylinders, spacing between concentric porous cylinders and wave parameter. Different mechanism of wave force is found under different range of scattering parameter. 相似文献
6.
We report on calculations of the on-shore run-up of waves that might be generated by the impact of subkilometre asteroids into the deep ocean. The calculations were done with the COULWAVE code, which models the propagation and shore-interaction of non-linear moderate- to long-wavelength waves ( kh < π) using the extended Boussinesq approximation. We carried out run-up calculations for several different situations: (1) laboratory-scale monochromatic wave trains onto simple slopes; (2) 10–100 m monochromatic wave trains onto simple slopes; (3) 10–100 m monochromatic wave trains onto a compound slope representing a typical bathymetric profile of the Pacific coast of North America; (4) time-variable scaled trains generated by the collapse of an impact cavity in deep water onto simple slopes and (5) full-amplitude trains onto the Pacific coast profile. For the last case, we also investigated the effects of bottom friction on the run-up. For all cases, we compare our results with the so-called 'Irribaren scaling': The relative run-up R / H 0 =ξ= s ( H 0 / L 0 )−1/2 , where the run-up is R , H 0 is the deep-water waveheight, L 0 is the deep-water wavelength, s is the slope and ξ is a dimensionless quantity known as the Irribaren number. Our results suggest that Irribaren scaling breaks down for shallow slopes s ≤ 0.01 when ξ < 0.1 − 0.2 , below which R / H 0 is approximately constant. This regime corresponds to steep waves and very shallow slopes, which are the most relevant for impact tsunami, but also the most difficult to access experimentally. 相似文献
7.
Dieter Kelletat Sander R. Scheffers Anja Scheffers 《Pure and Applied Geophysics》2007,164(2-3):413-431
The Andaman-Sumatra Tsunami of Dec. 26, 2004, was by far the largest tsunami catastrophe in human history. An earthquake of
9 to 9.3 on the Richter scale, the extension of waves over more than 5000 km of ocean and run-ups up to 35 m are its key features.
These characteristics suggest significant changes in coastal morphology and high sediment transport rates. A field survey
along the west coast of Thailand (Phuket Island, Khao Lak region including some Similan Islands, Nang Pha mangrove areas and
Phi Phi Don Islands) seven to nine weeks after the tsunami, however, discovered only small changes in coastal morphology and
a limited amount of dislocated sediments, restricted to the lower meters of the tsunami waves. This is in striking contrast
to many paleo-tsunami's events of the Atlantic region. Explanations for this discrepancy are sought in:
a. Mechanics of the earthquake. A rather slow shock impulse on the water masses over the very long earthquake zone,
b. Shallow water in the earthquake zone, and
c. Bathymetry of the foreshore zone at the impacted sites. Shallow water west of Thailand has diminished wave energy significantly.
The differences in geomorphological and sedimentological signatures of this tsunami compared with many paleo-tsunami worldwide
makes it unsuitable to be used as a model for old and future tsunami imprints by an event of this extreme energy and extension. 相似文献
8.
《国际泥沙研究》2022,37(5):589-600
The dynamic impact force of debris flow on dams with a curved upstream face curved was investigated using laboratory experiments and a theoretical approach. Equations describing the impact force and maximum run-up height were derived. The experiments and theoretical considerations reveal that the impact force and maximum run-up height are mainly controlled by the Froude number (Fr) reduced by the cosine of the channel slope angle (cosα). Both the impact force and the maximum run-up height have a quadratic relation with the modified Froude number (Fr/(cosα)0.5). The experimental data and the results of the theoretical approach are in good agreement, indicating that the theoretical approach can be used in practical applications. It is concluded that the comparison between the curved-joint dam and the more conventional sharp-joint dam shows no differences in the maximum impact force and run-up height for the same modified Froude number. With the sharp-joint dam, the peak values of the impact force are reached more quickly than with the curved-joint dam. 相似文献
9.
基于黏性流理论,采用动网格技术和6自由度模型,以及动量源方法,建立了双浮板液舱晃荡的数值模型。分别采用3种不同空间步长的网格离散计算区域,进行了网格收敛性验证。通过光滑液舱晃荡的模型试验和解析得到的爬高最大值,验证了数值模型的精确性。在载液率为50%,激励幅值为2 mm条件下,对双浮板液舱晃荡进行了数值计算,与光滑液舱相比,双浮板液舱晃荡的最大爬高明显减小。通过一个激励周期内双浮板液舱晃荡的波面显示发现,液舱晃荡模式由光滑液舱的驻波模式变为U管模式,晃荡模式的改变起到了明显地抑制液舱晃荡的效果。 相似文献
10.
随着深海油气田的不断开发,各种适应深海环境的浮式平台陆续涌现。多数深海平台通过立柱支撑上层甲板,波浪沿柱体表面的爬升效应极为明显,大大增加了强非线性砰击和越浪的危险,甚至将导致平台局部结构以及相关设备的破坏。因此,波浪爬升效应在平台设计及结构安全性方面具有重要的意义,并成为平台水动力研究的热点问题之一,是平台气隙预报的一个重要方面。介绍波浪爬升效应在平台设计阶段的重要性,分析波浪爬升的成因和影响因素,就目前国际上相关研究情况及进展进行了详细的阐述,并提出了这一课题未来研究方向的有关建议。 相似文献