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1.
The response to a shoreface nourishment of the two-bar system at Noordwijk (the Netherlands) is analyzed based on a daily data set of time-exposure video images collected during about 6 years, complemented with topographic and bathymetric surveys. The 1.7 Mm3 nourishment, implemented as a 3 km alongshore bump seaward of the outer bar, migrated more than 300 m onshore in 4 years before losing its integrity. Furthermore, the nourishment interrupted the autonomous seaward migration of both bars for the entire duration of the study period and, allaying earlier fears, did not intensify the three-dimensional patterns in the bars, such as the crescentic plan-shape and rip channels. The nourishment did result in clear head effects on both flanks, with the bar becoming discontinuous and the flank section decaying or becoming attached to an offshore-located bar, while the section of bar landward of the nourishment became attached to a landward-located bar. This sequence of morphologies is known as bar switching. Each switching episode took almost one year to complete and can therefore not be ascribed to individual wave events. We suspect that shoreface nourishments enhance the possibility of bar switching by creating alongshore variability in the position and depth of the outer bar and in its cross-shore migration rate and direction. The Noordwijk nourishment did not influence the shoreline position as its trend did not undergo distinctive variations after 1998. Differences in the response of the Noordwijk sandbars to the shoreface nourishment compared with other Dutch nourishments are attributed to the location and size (volume per unit length) of the nourishment with respect to the sandbars and to the median grain size of the nourished material. 相似文献
2.
Three experimental plots, covering the transition from the upper beach to the dune, on the North Sea coast of France were monitored at various intervals over a period of 18–24 months via high resolution terrain surveys in order to determine inter-site sand budget variability, as well as patterns and processes involved in sand exchanges between the upper beach and dune. The wind regime consists of a fairly balanced mix of moderate (80% of winds are below 8 m/s) onshore, offshore and shore-parallel winds. Sustained dune accretion over several years depends on the periodic local onshore welding of shoreface tidal banks that have developed in the storm- and tide-dominated setting of the southern North Sea. The only site where this has occurred in the recent past is Calais, where bank welding has created a wide accreting upper beach sand flat. At this site, significant sand supply from the subtidal sand bank reservoir to the upper beach flat occurred only once over the 18-month survey following a major storm. The bulk of the sand deposited over this large flat is not directly integrated into the adjacent embryo dunes by onshore winds but is progressively reworked in situ into developing dunes or transported alongshore by the balanced wind regime, thus resulting in alongshore stretching of the embryo dune system. The Leffrinckoucke site near Belgium shows moderate beach–dune mobility and accretion, while the Wissant site exhibits significant upper beach bedform mobility controlled by strong longshore currents that result in large beach budget fluctuations with little net budget change, to the detriment of the adjacent dunes. Accretion at these two sites, which are representative of the rest of the North Sea coast of France, is presently constrained by the absence of a shore-attached sand bank supply reservoir, while upper beach–dune sand exchanges are further limited by the narrow wave-affected upper beach, the intertidal morphology of bars and troughs which segments the aeolian fetch, and the moderate wind energy conditions. The balanced wind regime limits net sand mobilisation in favour of either the beach or the dune, and may explain the relatively narrow longshore morphology of the dune ridges bounding this coast. 相似文献
3.
Facies-scale trends in porosity and permeability are commonly mapped for reservoir models and flow simulation; however, these trends are too broad to capture bed and bed-set heterogeneity, and there is a need to up-scale detailed, bed-scale observations, especially in low-permeability reservoir intervals. Here we utilize sedimentology and ichnology at the bed- and bedset-scale to constrain the range of porosity and permeability that can be expected within facies of the Lower Cretaceous Viking Formation of south-central, Alberta, Canada.Three main facies were recognized, representing deposition from the middle shoreface to the upper offshore. Amalgamated, hummocky cross-stratified sandstone facies (Facies SHCS) consist of alternations between intensely bioturbated beds and sparsely bioturbated/laminated beds. Trace fossil assemblages in bioturbated beds of Facies SHCS are attributable to the archetypal Skolithos Ichnofacies, and are morphologically characterized by vertical, sand-filled shafts (VSS). Bioturbated beds show poor reservoir properties (max: 10% porosity, mean: 85.1 mD) compared to laminated beds (max 20% porosity, mean: 186 mD). Bioturbated muddy sandstone facies (Facies SB) represent trace fossil assemblages primarily attributable to the proximal expression of the Cruziana Ichnofacies. Four ichnological assemblages occur in varying proportions, namely sediment-churning assemblages (SC), horizontal sand-filled tube assemblages (HSF), VSS assemblages, and mud-filled, lined, or with spreiten (MLS) assemblages. Ichnological assemblages containing horizontal (max: 30% porosity, mean: 1.28 mD) or vertical sand-filled burrows (max: 10% porosity, mean: 2.2 mD) generally have better reservoir properties than laminated beds (max: 20% porosity, mean: 0.98 mD). Conversely, ichnological assemblages that consist of muddy trace fossils have lower porosity and permeability (max 10% porosity, mean: 0.89 mD). Highly bioturbated, sediment churned fabrics have only slightly higher porosity and permeability overall (max: 15% porosity, mean: 1.29 mD). Bioturbated sandy mudstone facies (Facies MB) contain ichnofossils representing an archetypal expression of the Cruziana Ichnofacies. Four ichnological assemblages occur throughout Facies MB that are similar to Facies SB; SC, HSF, VSS, and MLS assemblages. The SC (max: 15% porosity, mean: 21.67 mD), HSF (max: 20% porosity, mean: 3.79 mD), and VSS (max: 25% porosity, mean: 7.35 mD) ichnological assemblages have similar or slightly lower values than the laminated beds (max: 20% porosity, mean: 10.7 mD). However, MLS assemblages have substantially lower reservoir quality (max: 10% porosity, mean: 0.66 mD).Our results indicate that the most likely occurrence of good reservoir characteristics in bioturbated strata exists in sand-filled ichnological assemblages. This is especially true within the muddy upper offshore to lower shoreface, where vertically-oriented trace fossils can interconnect otherwise hydraulically isolated laminated sandstone beds; this improves vertical fluid transmission. The results of this work largely corroborate previous findings about ichnological impacts on reservoir properties. Unlike previous studies, however, we demonstrate that the characteristics of the ichnological assemblage, such as burrow form and the nature of burrow fill, also play an important role in determining reservoir characteristics. It follows that not all bioturbated intervals (attributed to the same facies) should be treated equally. When upscaling bed-scale observations to the reservoir, a range of possible permeability-porosity values can be tested for model sensitivity and to help determine an appropriate representative elementary volume. 相似文献
4.
Mobile sand deposits and shoreface sediment dynamics in the inner German Bight (North Sea) 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
This paper presents a conceptual model for the net bedload transport regime on the shoreface of the German Bight. The model is based on the spatial distribution of the surficial sediment cover (North Sea sands) which is identical to the uppermost layer in the seismic recordings. Sediment thickness was measured using very high resolution seismic profiling (chirp sonar) and vibrocoring. The three-dimensional sediment distribution was estimated using geostatistical methods (cokriging). The results demonstrate a longshore sand distribution with three distinct zones. In Zone 1 (0–10 m water depth) the sediments attain their maximum thickness of 10±2.5 m. Between 10 and 15 m water depth a relatively thin sand layer of 0.4–1.5 m is observed within Zone 2. The seaward adjacent Zone 3 (15–20 m water depth) is characterized by an averaged sand thickness of 2–3 m with local maxima of 5–6 m. Further offshore, the sand layer decreases to about 1–2 m thickness. The net bedload transport directions inferred from this sediment zonation comprise a longshore sediment bypassing in Zone 1 which results in a substantial sediment supply to the innermost part of the German Bight due to bedload convergence. Shore-normal bedload transport shifts sand to and fro across the coastal profile although the net directional transport is seawards. This results in sediment depletion between the 10 and 15 m-isobaths (Zone 2) and an adjacent sediment accumulation in deeper waters (Zone 3). 相似文献
5.
The morphological evolution of a shoreface nourishment is investigated by interpreting the nourishment as a linear perturbation of the natural system. The nourishment is projected onto the subset of linear eigenmodes with negative growth rates of the morphodynamical system. The evolution of these linear modes then determines the temporal behaviour of the shoreface nourishment. The method is presented, and results are shown for shoreface nourishments of different length scales on a straight coast and subject to normal incidence. Shoreface nourishments are represented by their expansions according to the projection method on a 1:50 plane beach profile. All nourishments are shown primarily to be diffusive features, with long scale nourishments diffusing more slowly than shorter length scale nourishments. Long scale nourishments also exhibit a shoreward movement during their decay. This all indicates that long length scale nourishments may be more beneficial in coastal engineering projects. This study is a first step towards nonlinear projection to study shoreface nourishment behaviour. 相似文献
6.
Previously validated model results were used to characterize the wave climate over the Southern Brazilian Shelf (SBS). The low mean significant wave height over the western South Atlantic shelves was shown together with examples of cyclone-induced extreme wave fields and other typical wave conditions. The mean offshore spectra showed a bimodal shape with a predominance of S/SSW and ENE/E waves with distinctive interannual rising periods in wave energy density. Along-shelf wave energy gradients were seen near the coast with higher energy located off capes and coastal projections and energy minima between them. A considerable drop in wave energy suggests the 40 m depth as the mean wave base and consequently the lower limit of the SBS shoreface. The upper shoreface mean wave energy density varied abruptly along the shelf in response to differences in bottom declivities. The large and shallow shoreface was responsible for an intense refraction of the waves and hence very small angles of attack. Additionally, it was shown the sheltering effect caused by capes and coastal projections and a remarkable north/south energy asymmetry between them, caused by a windowing on the wave propagation to the shore. Altogether, it was possible to state that bottom friction plays a major role in wave differentiation along the SBS shoreface, thus suggesting that shelf morphology might indeed be more important to generate wave variability than the offshore wave variation itself. 相似文献
7.
分析了杭州湾北岸一个潮间带小海湾－炮台湾及其前沿海域的流场、含沙量分布及水下地形的变化，指出小海湾内水流主要受湾外浅水水流控制，在独特的边界地影响下，湾内在不同时段内出现历时较短的水平环流，流场变化较快，小水深时水体含沙量较高，含沙量随水深和水流和变化而急剧变化。对湾外浅水水域水流的挟沙力了计算，并讨论了炮台湾围堤后水流挟沙力的变化，给出围堤后水下岸坡剖面变动的预测，经与实测比较，结果是令人满意的 相似文献
8.
Analyses of shoreline and bathymetry change near Calais, northern coast of France, showed that shoreline evolution during the 20th century was strongly related with shoreface and nearshore bathymetry variations. Coastal erosion generally corresponds to areas of nearshore seabed lowering while shoreline progradation is essentially associated with areas of seafloor aggradation, notably east of Calais where an extensive sand flat experienced seaward shoreline displacement up to more than 300 m between 1949 and 2000. Mapping of bathymetry changes since 1911 revealed that significant variation in nearshore morphology was caused by the onshore and alongshore migration of a prominent tidal sand bank that eventually welded to the shore. Comparison of bathymetry data showed that the volume of the bank increased by about 10×107 m3 during the 20th century, indicating that the bank was acting as a sediment sink for some of the sand transiting alongshore in the coastal zone. Several lines of evidence show that the bank also represented a major sediment source for the prograding tidal flat, supplying significant amounts of sand to the accreting upper beach. Simulation of wave propagation using the SWAN wave model (Booij et al., 1999) suggests that the onshore movement of the sand bank resulted in a decrease of wave energy in the nearshore zone, leading to more dissipative conditions. Such conditions would have increased nearshore sediment supply, favoring aeolian dune development on the upper beach and shoreline progradation. Our results suggest that the onshore migration of nearshore sand banks may represent one of the most important, and possibly the primary mechanism responsible for supplying marine sand to beaches and coastal dunes in this macrotidal coastal environment. 相似文献
9.
Tide-driven bed load transport is an important portion of the net annual sediment transport rate in many shoreface and shelf environments. However, bed load transport under waves cannot be measured in the field and bed load transport by currents without waves is barely measurable, even in spring tidal conditions. There is, consequently, a strong lack of field data and validated models. The present field site was on the shoreface and inner shelf at 2 to 8.5 km offshore the central Dutch coast (far outside the surfzone), where tidal currents flow parallel to the coast. Bed load transports were carefully measured with a calibrated sampler in spring tidal conditions without waves at a water depth of 13–18 m with fine and medium sands. The near-bed flow was measured over nearly a year and used for integration to annual transport rates. An empirical bed load model was derived, which predicts bed load transports that are a factor of > 5 smaller than predicted by existing models. However, they agree with laboratory data of sand and gravel transport in currents near incipient motion. The damped transport rates may have been caused by cohesion of sediment or turbulence damping due to mud or biological activity. The annual bed load transport rate was calculated using a probability density function (pdf) derived from the near-bed current and orbital velocity data which represented the current and wave climate well when compared to 30 years of data from a nearby wave station. The effect of wave stirring was included in the transport calculations. The net bed load transport rate is a few m2/year. This is much less than predicted in an earlier model study, which is partly due to different bed load models but also due to the difference in velocity pdf. The annual transport rate is very sensitive to the probability of the largest current velocities. 相似文献
10.
Certain details regarding the origin and evolution of shelf sand ridges remain elusive. Knowledge of their internal stratigraphy and microfossil distribution is necessary to define the origin and to determine the processes that modify sand ridges. Fourteen vibracores from False Cape Shoal A, a well-developed shoreface-attached sand ridge on the Virginia/North Carolina inner continental shelf, were examined to document the internal stratigraphy and benthic foraminiferal assemblages, as well as to reconstruct the depositional environments recorded in down-core sediments. Seven sedimentary and foraminiferal facies correspond to the following stratigraphic units: fossiliferous silt, barren sand, clay to sandy clay, laminated and bioturbated sand, poorly sorted massive sand, fine clean sand, and poorly sorted clay to gravel. The units represent a Pleistocene estuary and shoreface, a Holocene estuary, ebb tidal delta, modern shelf, modern shoreface, and swale fill, respectively. The succession of depositional environments reflects a Pleistocene sea-level highstand and subsequent regression followed by the Holocene transgression in which barrier island/spit systems formed along the Virginia/North Carolina inner shelf 5.2 ka and migrated landward and an ebb tidal delta that was deposited, reworked, and covered by shelf sand. 相似文献