排序方式： 共有22条查询结果，搜索用时 15 毫秒
1.
Gu Jialong Shen Xianrong
Professor Hohai University Nanjing
Engineer The Investigation Design Institute Bureau of Communications of Zhejiang Province Hangzhou 《中国海洋工程》1991,(2)
In accordance with the similarity between breaking waves and hydraulic jumps, the expressions for estimating wave decay and wave energy dissipation in the surf zone are derived based on the fundamental equations of fluid mechanics. Using the numerical solution of cnoidal wave theory, the various kinematic properties of waves in the surf zone, including the relative wave crest height, wave energy, and radiation stress are discussed. The values calculated with the method proposed in this paper are in good agreement with the experimental data gained by other researchers. The present expressions can be used in the studies of sediment transport on gently sloping beaches, especially on muddy beaches. 相似文献
2.
In this paper, we analyse the ability of the nonlinear shallow-water (NSW) equations to predict wave distortion and energy dissipation of periodic broken waves in the inner surf zone. This analysis is based on the weak-solution theory for conservative equations. We derive a new one-way model, which applies to the transformation of non-reflective periodic broken waves on gently sloping beaches. This model can be useful to develop breaking-wave parameterizations (in particular broken-wave celerity expression) in both time-averaged wave models and time-dependent Boussinesq-type models. We also derive a new wave set-up equation which provides a simple and explicit relation between wave set-up and energy dissipation. Finally, we compare numerical simulations of both, the NSW model and the simplified one-way model, with spilling wave breaking experiments and we find a good agreement. 相似文献
3.
W.R. Geyer 《Estuarine, Coastal and Shelf Science》1997,44(6):713-722
Observations of two small estuaries in Cape Cod, U.S.A. indicate large variations in salinity structure that are forced by variations in along-estuary wind stress. During onshore winds, the estuarine circulation is reduced, and the along-estuary salinity gradient increases as freshwater accumulates. During offshore winds, the surface outflow is enhanced, freshwater is flushed out of the estuary, and the along-estuary salinity gradient becomes weak. Constrictions block the wind-induced flushing, resulting in strong salinity fronts across the constrictions. The residence time of one of the estuaries varies by more than a factor of three in response to variations in wind-induced flushing. The other estuary has little variation of flushing associated with winds, due to a constriction at the mouth that inhibits the wind-induced exchange. The strong influence of winds on the flushing of these estuaries is due in part to their shallow depths, which accentuates the influence of wind stress relative to the effects of the horizontal density gradient. In addition, the residence times of the estuaries are comparable to the time scale of wind forcing, allowing large changes in water properties during wind events. 相似文献
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5.
波浪增水抬升了岸礁礁坪的平均水位,对岸礁后方陆域安全有重要影响。通过水槽试验,研究了不规则波况下岸礁礁坪的增水。试验组次为3种礁坪水深、4种有效波高和4种谱峰周期的组合。试验结果表明:①岸礁地形上的波浪要素需至少统计200个波才能达到稳定;②不规则波列在岸礁上破碎过程比规则波列复杂,同一波列中波高较大的波以卷破形式在礁前斜坡上破碎,波高较小的波以崩破形式在礁坪上破碎或者不破碎;③礁坪上最大增水值随入射波周期的增大而增大、随礁坪水深的增大而减小,并与入射波波高呈正比。结合试验数据,发现基于规则波试验得出的Gourlay礁坪增水公式,在使用有效波高和谱峰周期作为代表波要素时,公式能良好地预测不规则波在岸礁礁坪上的最大增水值。 相似文献
6.
Large-scale field tests were conducted to study set-up effect in open-ended prestressed high-strength concrete pipe piles jacked into stratified soil. Four open-ended prestressed high-strength concrete pipe piles with 13 and 18 m in embedment depth were fully instrumented with fiber Bragg grating sensors and installed. Several restrike dynamic tests were performed on each test pile, with the time interval from 21.5 to 284 hours after installation. Static loading tests (SLTs) were later performed on each test pile at 408 hours after installation to substantiate the dynamic tests. Changes with time in pile bearing capacity and in the shaft and toe resistances were studied based on the results of the pile tests. The development of shaft resistance set-up in different layers was studied in particular. It was found that set-up effect in the shaft resistance is significant and the toe resistance increment was minor. The overall set-up factor of total bearing capacity was found to range from 0.09 to 0.53, and the set-up effect of friction pile is much larger than the end bearing pile. More significant set-up in shaft resistance was observed in fill and alluvium layer. The dimensionless set-up factor A for shaft resistance in marine deposits ranges from 0.5 to 1.43, and it contributes the most to the shaft resistance as the shaft resistance in marine deposits is higher. 相似文献
7.
In this study, we investigated wave transformation and wave set-up between a submerged permeable breakwater and a seawall. Modified time-dependent mild-slope equations, which involve parameters of the porous medium, were used to calculate the wave height transformation and the mean water level change around a submerged breakwater. The numerical solution is verified with experimental data. The simulated results show that modulations of the wave profile and wave set-up are clearly observed between the submerged breakwater and the seawall. In contrast to cases without a seawall, the node or pseudo-node of wave height evolution can be found between the submerged breakwater and the seawall. Higher wave set-up occurs if the nodal or pseudo-nodal point appears near the submerged breakwater. We also examined the influence of the porosity and friction factor of the submerged permeable breakwater on wave transformation and set-up. 相似文献
8.
Wave set-up in storm surges is studied using a numerical model for coasts in Tosa Bay, Japan, open to the Pacific Ocean. Simulation models employing only atmospheric pressures and winds as external forces are unable to properly simulate open coast storm surge heights, such as those due to Typhoon Anita (1970). However, the present study shows that a numerical model incorporating wave-induced radiation stresses, as well as wind stresses and pressure gradients, is able to account for the open coast surge heights. There is a maximum contribution of 40% by the radiation stresses to the peak sea level rises. This study also evaluates the effects of the tides; including the tides improves the agreement between the predicted water surface elevations and the observations. The difference in predictions between one-way coupling from wave to surge models and two-way coupling of the surge and wave models is found to be small. 相似文献
9.
A Three-Dimensional Nearshore Hydrodynamic Model with Depth-Dependent Radiation Stresses 总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2
For the simulation of the three-dimensional (3D) nearshore circulation,a 3D hydrodynamic model is developed by taking into account the depth-dependent radiation stresses.Expressions for depth-depeedent radiation stresses in the Cartsian coordinates are introduced on the basis of the linear wave theory,and then vertical variations of depth-dependent radiation stresses are discussed.The 3D hydrodynamic model of EICIRC (Eulerian-Lagrangian CIRCulation) is extended by adding the terms of the depth-dependent or depth-averaged radiation stresses in the momentum equations.The wave set-up,set-down and undertow are simulated by the extended ELCIRC model based on the wave fields provided by the experiment or the REF/DIF wave model.The simulated results with the depth-dependent and depth-averaged radiation stresses both show good agreement with the experimental data for wave set-up and set-down.The undertow profiles predicted by the model with the depth-dependent radiation stresses are also consistent with the experimental results,while the model with the depth-averaged radiation stresses can not reflect the vertical distribution of undertow. 相似文献
10.
The increase of pile resistance with time is referred to as ‘set-up’. This behaviour of driven piles has been widely discussed in many studies by researchers. Meanwhile, there has been little, if any, information regarding this aspect for drilled shafts. Performing a bearing capacity test for a shaft over time, however, requires higher costs and more complicated rigs compared to a driven pile. A database including results from five Osterberg cell-tested drilled shafts conducted at two different stages is considered, from which the set-up effect is statistically analysed. The reliability-based analysis technique using Monte Carlo simulation (MCS) is used to develop separate resistance factors to account for different degrees of uncertainties associated with the predicted reference resistance and the predicted set-up resistance in the framework of the load and resistance factor design (LRFD) method. By incorporating set-up into design, shaft length or number of shafts can be reduced and economical design of drilled shafts can be achieved. 相似文献