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R. Tatavarti A. C. Narayana P. Manoj Kumar Shyam Chand 《Journal of Earth System Science》1999,108(1):57-68
Field experiments conducted in the nearshore ocean to understand the dynamics of mudbank off Kerala, south-west coast of India,
are highlighted. Real time monitoring of the nearshore ocean off Purakkad, Kerala was accomplished using pressure transducers
for nearshore surface wave measurements, and current sensors for nearshore velocity measurements. Comprehensive information
on the spatial structure of mudbank was obtained from aerial surveys. Extensive data collected on surface waves and currents
in the nearshore ocean, indicate that the infra-gravity (IG) waves (leaky modes and trapped edge wave modes), and far infra-gravity
(FIG) waves coupled with strong shoreline reflections and undertow play an important role in the dynamics associated with
the mudbanks off Kerala during the monsoon season. During the non-monsoon season evidence for progressive edge waves in the
infragravity frequency band, an energetic gravity wave band and a strong undertow with weak reflections was observed. 相似文献
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Wave shapes that induce velocity skewness and acceleration asymmetry are usually responsible for onshore sediment transport, whereas undertow and bottom slope effect normally contribute to offshore sediment transport. By incorporating these counteracting driving forces in a phase-averaged manner, the theoretically-based quasi-steady formula of Wang (2007) is modified to predict the magnitude and direction of net cross-shore total load transport under the coaction of wave and current. The predictions show an excellent agreement with the measurement data on medium and fine sand collected by Dohmen-Janssen and Hanes (2002) and Schretlen (2012) in a full-scale wave flume at the Coastal Research Centre in Hannover, Germany. The modified formula can predict the net onshore transport of fine sand in sheet flows. In particular, it can predict the net offshore transport of medium sand in rippled beds through enlarged bed roughness, as well as the net offshore transport of fine-to-coarse sand in sheet flows with the aid of a new criterion to judge the occurrence of net offshore transport. 相似文献
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A Three-Dimensional Nearshore Hydrodynamic Model with Depth-Dependent Radiation Stresses 总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2
For the simulation of the three-dimensional (3D) nearshore circulation,a 3D hydrodynamic model is developed by taking into account the depth-dependent radiation stresses.Expressions for depth-depeedent radiation stresses in the Cartsian coordinates are introduced on the basis of the linear wave theory,and then vertical variations of depth-dependent radiation stresses are discussed.The 3D hydrodynamic model of EICIRC (Eulerian-Lagrangian CIRCulation) is extended by adding the terms of the depth-dependent or depth-averaged radiation stresses in the momentum equations.The wave set-up,set-down and undertow are simulated by the extended ELCIRC model based on the wave fields provided by the experiment or the REF/DIF wave model.The simulated results with the depth-dependent and depth-averaged radiation stresses both show good agreement with the experimental data for wave set-up and set-down.The undertow profiles predicted by the model with the depth-dependent radiation stresses are also consistent with the experimental results,while the model with the depth-averaged radiation stresses can not reflect the vertical distribution of undertow. 相似文献
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The formation of an inner nearshore bar was observed during a high‐energy event at the sandy beach of Vejers, Denmark. The bar accreted in situ during surf zone conditions and the growth of the bar was associated with the development of a trough landward of the bar. Measurements of hydrodynamics and sediment fluxes were obtained from electromagnetic current meters and optical backscatter sensors. These process measurements showed that a divergence in sediment transport occurred at the location of the developing trough, and observed gradients in cross‐shore net sediment flux were consistent with the morphological development. The main cause for the flux gradients were cross‐shore gradients in offshore‐directed mean current (undertow) speed which depended upon local relative wave height and local bed slope. Copyright © 2007 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd. 相似文献
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Nearshore shoaling and breaking waves can drive a complex circulation system of wave-induced currents. In the cross-shore direction, the local vertical imbalance between the gradient of radiation stress and that of pressure due to the setup drives an offshore flow near the bottom, called ‘undertow’, which plays a significant role in the beach profile evolution and the structure stability in coastal regions. A 1DV undertow model was developed based on the relationship between the turbulent shear stress and t... 相似文献
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Three-dimensional numerical modeling of nearshore circulation 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
SUN Detong 《海洋学报(英文版)》2008,27(Z1):101-118
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By coupling the three-dimensional hydrodynamic model with the wave model, numerical simulations of the three-dimensional wave-induced current are carried out in this study. The wave model is based on the numerical solution of the modified wave action equation and eikonal equation, which can describe the wave refraction and diffraction. The hydrodynamic model is driven by the wave-induced radiation stresses and affected by the wave turbulence. The numerical implementation of the module has used the finite-volume schemes on unstructured grid, which provides great flexibility for modeling the waves and currents in the complex actual nearshore, and ensures the conservation of energy propagation. The applicability of the proposed model is evaluated in calculating the cases of wave set-up, longshore currents, undertow on a sloping beach, rip currents and meandering longshore currents on a tri-cuspate beach. The results indicate that it is necessary to introduce the depth-dependent radiation stresses into the numerical simulation of wave-induced currents, and comparisons show that the present model makes better prediction on the wave procedure as well as both horizontal and vertical structures in the wave-induced current field. 相似文献
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XIE Ming-xiao ZHANG Chi YANG Zhi-wen LI Shan LI Xin GUO Wei-jun ZUO Shu-hua 《海洋工程》2017,31(5):549-558
A process-based 3D numerical model for surfzone hydrodynamics and beach evolution was established. Comparisons between the experimental data and model results proved that the model could effectively describe the hydrodynamics, sediment transport feature and sandbar migration process in the surfzone with satisfactory precision. A series of numerical simulations on the wave breaking and shoaling up to a barred beach were carried out based on the model system. Analyzed from the model results, the wave-induced current system in the surfzone consists of two major processes, which are the phase-averaged undertow caused by wave breaking and the net drift caused by both of the nonlinear wave motion and surface roller effect. When storm waves come to the barred beach, the strong offshore undertow along the beach suppresses the onshore net drift, making the initial sandbar migrate to the seaside. Under the condition of calm wave environment, both the undertow and net drift flow to the shoreline at the offshore side of the sandbar, and then push the initial sandbar to the shoreline. The consideration of surface roller has significant impact on the modeling results of the sandbar migration. As the roller transfer rate increases, the sandbar moves onshore especially under the storm wave condition. 相似文献
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