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Numerical simulation of air flow over breaking waves
Authors:N Maat  V K Makin
Institution:(1) Division of Oceanographic Research, Royal Netherlands Meteorological Institute (KNMI), P.O. Box 201, 3730 AE De Bilt, The Netherlands
Abstract:The air flow above breaking monochromatic Stokes waves is studied using a numerical nonlinear model of the turbulent air flow above waves of finite amplitude. The breaking event (spilling breaker) is parameterized by increasing the local roughness at the downwind slope of the wave, just beyond the crest. Both moderate slope waves and steep waves are considered. Above steep breaking waves, a large increase (typically 100%) in the total wind stress — averaged over the wave profile — is found compared to nonbreaking moderate slope waves. This is due to the drastic increase of the form drag, which arises from the asymmetrical surface pressure pattern above breaking waves. Both increase of wave slope (sharpening of the crest) and increase of local roughness in the spilling breaker area cause this asymmetrical surface pressure pattern. A comparison of the numerical results with the recent experimental measurements of Banner (1990) is carried out and a good agreement is found for the structure of the pressure pattern above breaking waves and for the magnitude of enhanced momentum transfer. Also: Dept. of Applied Physics, Techn. Univ. Delft, Netherlands.
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