Evaluation of the wave transformation in an open bay with two spectral models |
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| Authors: | Eugen Rusu |
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| Institution: | Centre for Marine Technology and Engineering (CENTEC), Instituto Superior Técnico, Technical University of Lisbon, Portugal |
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| Abstract: | An evaluation of two state of the art phase averaged wave models for the transformation scale, SWAN and STWAVE, is carried out in the present work. The target area is the Obidos Bay located in the central part of the Portuguese continental nearshore. The wave input for the two models is provided by an offshore buoy. In order to compare the nearshore outputs of the wave models against in-situ measurements, a directional buoy and an ADCP, operating in intermediate water depth, are used. The wave parameters considered for comparisons are significant wave height, peak period and wave direction. Sensitivity analyses studies and evaluations in the spectral and geographical spaces concerning the results of the two models are also carried out in both intermediate and shallow water. The present study provides some information on the performances of the two wave models in different forcing conditions as well as on their sensitivity in relationship with various input parameters and some physical processes. STWAVE appears to be faster and more robust than SWAN, which on the other hand has more options and flexibility. In statistical terms the results are comparable. |
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| Keywords: | Wave transformation Spectral models SWAN-STWAVE Wave measurements Sensitivity |
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