Field verification of quasi-determinism theory for wind waves in the space-time domain |
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| Authors: | Paolo Boccotti |
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| Institution: | NOEL Laboratory, Mediterranea University of Reggio Calabria, Department of Mechanics and Materials, Loc. Feo di Vito, 89122 Reggio Calabria, Italy |
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| Abstract: | Profiles of exceptionally large waves in wind seas were obtained using a gauge array that was nearly aligned in the dominant wave direction; the length of these profiles ranged from 1.5 to 3.0 times the dominant wavelength. The profiles were also obtained through calculations using the quasi-determinism theory from the datasets of the sea states. The possibility to observe waves in the space-time domain enables us to obtain a remarkable confirmation of the quasi-determinism theory. |
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| Keywords: | Wind seas Large waves QD theory Space-time covariance Wave pressure records |
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