Observations on the formation and location of transient rip currents |
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| Authors: | Richard G Vos |
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| Institution: | Department of Geology, University of the Witwatersand, Johannesburg South Africa |
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| Abstract: | A model for the formation and location of transient rip currents is proposed. It is suggested that sucking and erosive effects at the peak site (highest part) of a set of large breaking waves initiate a seaward current in a scoured breaker zone, at the same time that water is accumulating inside the breakers. Accumulated water inside the breakers immediately begins to drain seaward through the peak site, feeding this embryonic rip current, which develops into a mature rip current. Rip-current formation in this manner best occurs following storms when a moderate swell, negligible or offshore winds and a flat shoreface profile are present. |
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