An empirical model for infragravity swash on barred beaches |
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| Institution: | 1. Moffatt and Nichol, One American Place, 301 Main St., Suite 800, Baton Rouge, LA 70825, USA;2. Joint Airborne Lidar Bathymetry Technical Center of Expertise, 7225 Stennis Airport Rd., Suite 100, Kiln, MS 39556, USA;3. Department of Civil and Environmental Engineering, 221D Patton Hall, Virginia Tech, Blacksburg, VA 24061, USA;1. Flanders Hydraulics Research, Antwerp, Belgium;2. Ghent University, Ghent, Belgium;3. Environmental Fluid Mechanics Section, Faculty of Civil Engineering and Geosciences, Delft University of Technology, The Netherlands;1. Marine Geosciences Division, Naval Research Laboratory, Stennis Space Center, MS, USA;2. Water Resources Laboratory, University of New South Wales, Manly, Australia;1. Environmental Hydraulics Institute “IH Cantabria”, Universidad de Cantabria, C/Isabel Torres 15 Parque Cientifico y Tecnologico de Cantabria, 39011 Santander, Spain;2. School of Marine Science and Engineering, Plymouth University, Drake Circus, Plymouth, Devon, PL8 4AA, UK |
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| Abstract: | Idealized computational simulations with the nearshore model XBeach were carried out for a series of barred beach configurations in order to quantify the impact of nearshore bars on infragravity swash. Results show that nearshore bar systems reduce infragravity swash energy at the shoreline. The amount of swash reduction was found to correlate with both bar depth and rip width, when a rip channel is present. In order to develop a generalized empirical model for significant infragravity swash for barred beaches, the simulations were used to extend the empirical swash model of Stockdon et al. (2006) to include bar characteristics. The developed empirical model relates significant infragravity swash to incident wave conditions and nearshore bar depth. With respect to Stockdon et al. (2006), this new model improves predictive skill by reducing root-mean-square error by 50% for the computational simulations and by 15% when applied to a range of field data. |
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