Equation on spatial variation of shallow water waves amplitude |
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| Authors: | Yang Lian-gui Hou Yi-jun |
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| Institution: | (1) Institute of Oceanology, Chinese Academy of Sciences, 266071 Qingdao |
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| Abstract: | Boussinesq’s theory was used in this study on water waves entering shallow water showing that the spacial variation of the
wave amplitude is nonlinear, and is governed by the Duffing equation usually applied to describe nonlinear oscillation in
nature.
Contribution No. 3324 from the Institute of Oceanology, Chinese Academy of Sciences.
Project 49471276 supported by NSFC and the Ninth-Five-Year Key Project (KI952-s1-420) of the Chinese Academy of Sciences. |
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| Keywords: | equation shallow water wave amplitude |
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