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Wave modelling - The state of the art
Authors:The WISE Group  J-HGM Alves  A Babanin  K Belibassakis  M Donelan  THC Herbers  PAEM Janssen  IV Lavrenov  R Magne  M Onorato  D Resio  A Sheremet  HL Tolman  J Wolf
Institution:a Institute of Marine Sciences, Castello 1364/A, 30122 Venice, Italy
b MetOcean Engineers Pty Ltd, 31 Bishop Street, Jolimont, WA 6014, Australia
c SHOM/CMO/RED, French Naval Oceanographic Center, 13 rue du Chatellier, 29609 Brest Cedex, France
d Swinburne University of Technology, P.O. Box 218, Hawthorn, Victoria 3122, Australia
e School of Mathematics, UNSW, Sydney 2052, Australia
f Shipbuilding Department, National Technical University of Athens, Agiou Spyridonos, 12210 Egaleo, Greece
g Laboratoire National d’Hydraulique et Environnement (LNHE), 6 quai Watier, BP49, 78400 Chatou Cedex, France
h University of Miami, RSMAS/AMP, 4600 Rickenbacker Causeway, Miami, FL 33149-1098, USA
i WL/Delft Hydraulics, P.O. Box 177, 2600 MH Delft, The Netherlands
j Department of Oceanography, Mail Code: OC/He, US Naval Postgraduate School, Monterey, CA 93943, USA
k Naval Research Laboratory, Washington, DC 20375, USA
l ECMWF, Shinfield Park, Reading RG2 9AX, UK
m Delft University of Technology, Fluid Mechanics Section, Faculty of Civil Engineering and Geosciences, P.O. Box 5048, 2600 GA Delft, The Netherlands
n Arctic and Antarctic Research Institute, 38 av. Bering, St. Petersburg 199397, Russia
o SHOM, 13 rue de Chapellier, 29609 Brest Cedex, France
p Hydraulics Laboratory, Katholieke Universiteit Leuven, Leuven, Kasteelpark Arenberg 40, B-3001 Heverlee, Belgium
q Università di Torino, Dipartimento di Fisica Generale, Via P. Giuria 1, 10125 Torino, Italy
r A.M.Obukhov Institute for Physics of Atmosphere, Pyzhevskii Per. 3, Moscow 119017, Russia
s Coastal and Hydraulics Laboratory, US Army Engineer Research and Development Center, Halls Ferry Road, Vicksburg, MS 39180, USA
t Naval Research Laboratory, Code 7322, Stennis Space Center, MS 39529, USA
u University of Florida, Civil and Coastal Engineering, 757 Weil Hall, Gainesville, FL 32611-6580, USA
v SAIC/GSO at NOAA/NCEP, Camp Springs, MD 20746, USA
w Alkyon Hydraulic Consultancy & Research P.O Box 248 8300 AE Emmeloord, The Netherlands
x Proudman Oceanographic Laboratory, Joseph Proudman Building, 6 Brownlow Street, Liverpool L3 5DA, UK
Abstract:This paper is the product of the wave modelling community and it tries to make a picture of the present situation in this branch of science, exploring the previous and the most recent results and looking ahead towards the solution of the problems we presently face. Both theory and applications are considered.The many faces of the subject imply separate discussions. This is reflected into the single sections, seven of them, each dealing with a specific topic, the whole providing a broad and solid overview of the present state of the art. After an introduction framing the problem and the approach we followed, we deal in sequence with the following subjects: (Section) 2, generation by wind; 3, nonlinear interactions in deep water; 4, white-capping dissipation; 5, nonlinear interactions in shallow water; 6, dissipation at the sea bottom; 7, wave propagation; 8, numerics. The two final sections, 9 and 10, summarize the present situation from a general point of view and try to look at the future developments.
Keywords:Wind waves  Wind-wave generation  Wave-wave interaction  Wave propagation  Wave dissipation  Wave-current interaction  Numerics
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