Nonlinear crest distribution for shallow water Stokes waves |
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| Institution: | 1. State Key Laboratory of Ocean Engineering, Shanghai Jiao Tong University, Shanghai 200240, PR China;2. Collaborative Innovation Center for Advanced Ship and Deep-Sea Exploration (CISSE), Shanghai 200240, PR China;3. School of Naval Architecture, Ocean and Civil Engineering, Shanghai Jiao Tong University, Shanghai 200240, PR China;1. Civil Engineering Faculty, K.N. Toosi University of Technology, Tehran, Iran;2. Ocean Engineering and Technology Research Center, Iranian National Institute for Oceanography and Atmospheric Science, Tehran, Iran;1. State Key Laboratory of Coastal and Offshore Engineering, Dalian University of Technology, Dalian, 116023, China;2. Department of Ocean Engineering, Texas A&M University, Galveston and College Station, TX, 77554, USA;1. School of Civil Engineering and Transportation, South China University of Technology, Guangzhou, 510641, China;2. School of Marine Science and Engineering, South China University of Technology, Guangzhou, 510641, China;3. State Key Laboratory of Coastal and Offshore Engineering, Dalian University of Technology, Dalian, 116024, China;4. Ecole Centrale de Nantes, LHEEA Lab (ECN and CNRS), Nantes, France |
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| Abstract: | This article concerns the calculation of nonlinear crest distribution for shallow water Stokes waves. The calculations have been carried out by incorporating a second order nonlinear wave model into an asymptotic analysis method. This is a new approach to the calculation of wave crest distribution, and, as all of the calculations are performed in the probability domain, avoids the need for long time-domain simulations. The accuracy and efficiency of this new approach for calculating the wave crest distribution are validated by comparing the results predicted using it with those predicted by using the Monte Carlo simulation (MCS) method, by using a previous Transformed Rayleigh method, by using some existing wave crest distribution formulas, and by using the measured surface elevation data at the Poseidon platform in the Japan Sea. |
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| Keywords: | Shallow water Stokes waves Wave crest distribution Asymptotic method |
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