| A Study on the Spectral Form of Nearshore Water Waves |
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| 作者单位： | Kuo Yiyu Chien Chungching Professor，Department of Civil Engineering，National Chiao-Tung University，Wuchi，Taichung District，taiwan Graduate Student for Ph. D.，Department of Civil Engineering，National Chiao-Tung University，Wuchi，Taichung District，Taiwan |
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| 摘 要： | - The spectral form of wind waves is investigated based on the ocean wave data observed at three nearshore stations of Taiwan. In this study, the generalized forms of Pierson-Moskowitz spectrum and JONSWAP spectrum are used to describe the local wave spectrum by selecting suitable spectral form parameters. It is shown that, at a specific site, the similarity of wave spectral form exists. Thus it is possible to use a representative spectral form for a given nearshore region to describe the wave spectrum at this nearshore. On the other hand, the effects of relative water depth on spectral form are examined. The feasibility of two spectral models in finite water depth is evaluated by using the same field wave data.
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A Study on the Spectral Form of Nearshore Water Waves |
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| Authors: | Kuo Yiyu Chien Chungching Professor |
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| Institution: | Kuo Yiyu Chien Chungching Professor,Department of Civil Engineering,National Chiao-Tung University,Wuchi,Taichung District,taiwan Graduate Student for Ph. D.,Department of Civil Engineering,National Chiao-Tung University,Wuchi,Taichung District,Taiwan |
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| Abstract: | - The spectral form of wind waves is investigated based on the ocean wave data observed at three nearshore stations of Taiwan. In this study, the generalized forms of Pierson-Moskowitz spectrum and JONSWAP spectrum are used to describe the local wave spectrum by selecting suitable spectral form parameters. It is shown that, at a specific site, the similarity of wave spectral form exists. Thus it is possible to use a representative spectral form for a given nearshore region to describe the wave spectrum at this nearshore. On the other hand, the effects of relative water depth on spectral form are examined. The feasibility of two spectral models in finite water depth is evaluated by using the same field wave data. |
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| Keywords: | field wind wave wave spectrrum spectral form spectrum model finite wate depth |
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