Effects of reef morphology variations on wave processes over fringing reefs |
| |
| Institution: | 1. School of Hydraulic Engineering, Changsha University of Science and Technology, Changsha, Hunan, 410114, China;2. Tianjin Research Institute for Water Transport Engineering, Tianjin, 300456, China;3. Key Laboratory of Water-Sediment Sciences and Water Disaster Prevention of Hunan Province, Changsha, Hunan, 410114, China;1. School of Hydraulic Engineering, Changsha University of Science and Technology, Changsha, Hunan 410114, China;2. Department of Ocean and Resources Engineering, School of Ocean and Earth Science and Technology, University of Hawaii at Manoa, Honolulu, HI 96822, USA;3. Key Laboratory of Water-Sediment Sciences and Water Disaster Prevention of Hunan Province, Changsha, Hunan 410114, China;4. Department of Civil and Environmental Engineering, Stanford University, CA 94305, USA;1. Ocean College, Zhejiang University, Zhoushan, 316021, China;2. Key Laboratory of Coastal Disasters and Defence of Ministry of Education, Nanjing, 210098, China;3. Key Laboratory of Water-Sediment Sciences and Water Disaster Prevention of Hunan Province, Changsha, 410114, China;4. National Marine Hazard Mitigation Service, Ministry of Natural Resources of the People''s Republic of China, Beijing, 100000, China;1. Department of Water Resources and Environmental Engineering, Tamkang University, Taipei, Taiwan;2. Department of Civil and Environmental Engineering, Old Dominion University, Norfolk, VA, USA;1. Department of Water Resources and Environmental Engineering, Tamkang University, Taipei, Taiwan;2. Department of Civil and Environmental Engineering, Old Dominion University, Norfolk, VA, USA;3. Department of Harbor and River Engineering, Research Center for Ocean Energy and Strategies, National Taiwan Ocean University, Keelung, Taiwan |
| |
| Abstract: | Many low-lying tropical and sub-tropical atolls fringed by coral reefs are susceptible to coastal inundation during extreme wave events. Previous studies have shown that the infragravity (IG) wave is the dominant component of shoreline run-up compared to the sea and swell (SS) wave and the wave-induced setup. To better understand both the SS and IG wave dynamics over a fringing reef with various morphologies, a series of laboratory experiments were conducted in a wave flume based on an idealized fringing reef profile. The shoreline responses of waves to different reef morphologies with/without the reef crest, the lagoon and the reef surface roughness were examined. IG wave resonance on the reef flat was identified by a spectral analysis of the shoreline wave records. Subsequently, a numerical model based on the Boussinesq equations was validated by the experimental data. The model was then applied to investigate the impacts of varying reef morphologic features (fore-reef slope, reef-crest width, lagoon width, and reef roughness coefficient) on the shoreline wave motions. |
| |
| Keywords: | Infragravity wave Fringing reef Reef crest Lagoon Reef roughness |
| 本文献已被 ScienceDirect 等数据库收录！ |
|
