Infra-gravity wave generation by the shoaling wave groups over beaches |
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| Authors: | Yu-Hsien Lin Hwung-Hweng Hwung |
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| Institution: | LIN Yu-Hsiena and HWUNG Hwung-Hwengb, 1 a Fishing Boat and Marine Engineering Research Center, National Cheng-Kung University, Tainan 70101, China b National Cheng-Kung University, Tainan 70101, China |
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| Abstract: | A physical parameter, μb, which was used to meet the forcing of primary short waves to be off-resonant before wave breaking, has been considered as
an applicable parameter in the infra-gravity wave generation. Since a series of modulating wave groups for different wave
conditions are performed to proceed with the resonant mechanism of infra-gravity waves prior to wave breaking, the amplitude
growth of incident bound long wave is assumed to be simply controlled by the normalized bed slope, β
b. The results appear a large dependence of the growth rate, α, of incident bound long wave, separated by the three-array method, on the normalized bed slope, β
b. High spatial resolution of wave records enables identification of the cross-correlation between squared short-wave envelopes
and infra-gravity waves. The cross-shore structure of infra-gravity waves over beaches presents the mechanics of incident
bound- and outgoing free long waves with the formation of free standing long waves in the nearshore region. The wave run-up
and amplification of infra-gravity waves in the swash zone appear that the additional long waves generated by the breaking
process would modify the cross-shore structure of free standing long waves. Finally, this paper would further discuss the
contribution of long wave breaking and bottom friction to the energy dissipation of infra-gravity waves based on different
slope conditions. |
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| Keywords: | infra-gravity wave low-frequency wave surf zone swash zone |
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