Simulation and prediction of swash oscillations on a steep beach |
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| Institution: | 1. Institute for Marine and Atmospheric Research, Department of Physical Geography, Faculty of Geosciences, Utrecht University, P.O. Box 80.115, 3508 TC Utrecht, Netherlands;2. Water, Environment and Infrastructure Resilience Research Unit, Department of Architecture and Civil Engineering, University of Bath, Bath BA2 7AY, United Kingdom;3. CNRS, UMR EPOC 5805, 33615 Pessac, France;4. Université de Bordeaux, UMR EPOC 5805, 33615 Pessac, France;5. Ifremer — Dyneco/Physed, Centre Bretagne, BP70, 29280 Plouzané, France;6. Center for Applied Coastal Research, Department of Civil and Environmental Engineering, University of Delaware, Newark, USA;1. Universidad ORT Uruguay, Cuareim 1451, Montevideo 11100, Uruguay;2. Universidad Politécnica de Madrid, Campus de Montegancedo s/n, Madrid 28660, Spain;1. Associate Professor, Department of Civil Engineering, University of Seoul, Republic of Korea;2. Laboratori d’Enginyeria Maritima, Universitat Politecnica de Catalunya, Barcelona, Spain |
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| Abstract: | This paper presents numerical simulations and analytical predictions of key aspects of swash oscillations on a steep beach. Simulations of the shoreline displacement based on bore run-up theory are found to give excellent agreement with recent experimental data for regular waves, wave groups and random waves. The theory is used to derive parameters that predict the onset of swash saturation and the spectral characteristics of the saturated shoreline motion. These parameters are again in good agreement with the measured laboratory data and are also consistent with previous experimental data. Simulation of irregular wave run-up using a series of overlapping monochromatic swash events is found to reproduce typical features of swash oscillations and can accurately describe both the low and high frequency spectral characteristics of the swash zone. In particular, the low frequency components of the run-up can be modelled directly using a sequence of incident short wave bores, with no direct long wave input to the numerical simulations. This suggests that wave groupiness must be accounted for when modelling shoreline oscillations. |
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