Directional energy distribution of wind waves |
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| Authors: | Noriyuki Iwata |
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| Institution: | (1) Institute of Coastal Oceanology, National Research Center for Disaster Prevention, Science and Technology Agency, Nijigahama, Hiratsuka, Kanagawa, Japan |
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| Abstract: | Two-dimensional ocean wave spectrum developing under the atmospheric surface pressure fluctuations is linearly correlated with that of wind pressure itself, so that angular distribution of energy of ocean surface waves can be determined by directional properties of surface pressure fluctuations with the same frequency to the surface wave.From empirically determined spectral formula of the atmospheric surface pressure fluctuations the coefficients of Fourier series expanded around mean direction of wind are analytically integrated, from which r.m.s. angular distribution, spectral peakedness and long-crestedness are calculated, compared with previously proposed empirical formulae and observations carried out by ultrasonic current meter. |
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