Spectral characteristics of the nearshore waves off Paradip,India during monsoon and extreme events |
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Authors: | V M Aboobacker P Vethamony K Sudheesh S P Rupali |
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Institution: | (1) National Institute of Oceanography, Dona Paula, Goa, 403004, India |
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Abstract: | Spectral and statistical wave parameters obtained from the measured time series wave data off Paradip, east coast of India
during May 1996–January 1997 were analysed along with MIKE 21 spectral wave model (SW) results. Statistical wave parameters
and directional wave energy spectra distinctly separate out the wave conditions that prevailed off Paradip in the monsoon,
fair weather and extreme weather events during the above period. Frequency-energy spectra during extreme events are single
peaked, and the maximum energy distribution is in a narrow frequency band with an average directional spreading of 20°. Spectra
for other seasons are multi-peaked, and energy is distributed over a wide range of frequencies and directions. The NCEP re-analysis
winds were used in the model, and the results clearly bring out the wave features during depressions. The simulated wave parameters
reasonably show good match with the measurements. For example, the correlation coefficient between the measured and modelled
significant wave height is 0.87 and the bias −0.25. |
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Keywords: | Directional wave spectra Depressions Wave measurements MIKE21 Wave modelling Paradip coast |
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