Statistical model on the surface elevation of waves with breaking |
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| Authors: | YeLi Yuan Feng Hua ShuWen Zhang and Lei Han |
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| Institution: | (1) Marine Science and Numerical Modeling Laboratory, SOA, Qingdao, 266061, China;(2) First Institute of Oceanography, SOA, Qingdao, 266061, China;(3) South China Sea Environmental Institute, Guangdong Ocean University, Zhanjiang, 524088, China |
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| Abstract: | In the surface wind drift layer with constant momentum flux, two sets of the consistent surface eleva- tion expressions with breaking and occurrence conditions for breaking are deduced from the first in- tegrals of the energy and vortex variations and the kinetic and mathematic breaking criterions, then the expression of the surface elevation with wave breaking is established by using the Heaviside function. On the basis of the form of the sea surface elevation with wave breaking and the understanding of small slope sea waves, a triple composite function of real sea waves is presented including the func- tions for the breaking, weak-nonlinear and basic waves. The expression of the triple composite func- tion and the normal distribution of basic waves are the expected theoretical model for surface elevation statistics. |
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| Keywords: | first integrals for energy and vortex variations in wind drift layer kinetic and mathematic wave breaking criterions triple composite function of the real sea waves normal distribution of the basic waves |
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