| An Improved Nearshore Wave Breaking Model Based on the Fully Nonlinear Boussinesq Equations |
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| 作者姓名： | 李绍武 李春颖 时钟 谷汉斌 |
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| 作者单位： | [1]SchoolofCivilEngineering,TianjinUniversity,Tianjin300072,China [2]SchoolofNavalArchitecture,OceanandCivilEngineering,ShanghaiJiaoTongUniversity,Shanghai200030,China |
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| 基金项目： | This study was supported by the National Natural Science Foundation of China (Grant No.50479047) and partly by the National Science Fund for Distinguished Young Scholars of China (Estuarine and Coastal Science, Grant No.40225014) |
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| 摘 要： | This paper aims to propose an improved numerical model for wave breaking in the nearshore region based on the fully nonlinear form of Boussinesq equations. The model uses the k equation turbulence scheme to determine the eddy viscosity in the Boussinesq equations. To calculate the turbulence production term in the equation, a new formula is derived based on the concept of surface roller. By use of this formula, the turbulence production in the one-equation turbulence scheme is directly related to the difference between the water portide velocity and the wave celerity. The model is verified by Hansen and Svendsen‘s experimental data (1979) in terms of wave height and setup and sctdown. The comparison between the model and experimental results of wave height and setup and setdown shows satisfactory agreement. The modeled turbulence energy decreases as waves attenuate in the surf zone. The modeled production term peaks at the breaking point and decreases as waves propagate shoreward. It is also suggested that both convection and diffusion play their important roles in the transport of turbulence energy immediately after wave breaking. When waves approach to the shoreline, the production and dissipation of turbulence energy are almost balanced. By use of the slot technique for the simulation of the movable shoreline boundary, wave ranup in the swash zone is well simulated by the present model.
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| 关 键 词： | 波浪断裂 表面滚动 完全非线性 泊松函数 |
An Improved Nearshore Wave Breaking Model Based on the Fully Nonlinear Boussinesq Equations |
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| LI Shao-wu a, LI Chun-ying a,SHI Zhong band GU Han-bin aaSchool of Civil Engineering,Tianjin University,Tianjin ,ChinabSchool of Naval Architecture,Ocean and Civil Engineering,Shanghai Jiao Tong University,Shanghai ,China.An Improved Nearshore Wave Breaking Model Based on the Fully Nonlinear Boussinesq Equations[J].China Ocean Engineering,2005,19(1):61-71. |
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| Authors: | LI Shao-wu a LI Chun-ying a SHI Zhong band GU Han-bin aaSchool of Civil Engineering Tianjin University Tianjin ChinabSchool of Naval Architecture Ocean and Civil Engineering Shanghai Jiao Tong University Shanghai China |
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| Institution: | LI Shao-wu a,1 LI Chun-ying a,SHI Zhong band GU Han-bin aaSchool of Civil Engineering,Tianjin University,Tianjin 300072,ChinabSchool of Naval Architecture,Ocean and Civil Engineering,Shanghai Jiao Tong University,Shanghai 200030,China |
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