On low-frequency waves in the surf and swash |
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| Authors: | Harshinie Karunarathna Andrew J Chadwick |
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| Institution: | aSchool of Engineering, Reynolds Building, University of Plymouth, Drake Circus, Plymouth PL4 8AA, UK |
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| Abstract: | Low-frequency waves in the surf and swash zones on various beach slopes are discussed using numerical simulations. Simulated surface elevations of both primary waves and low-frequency waves across the surf zone were first compared with experimental data and good agreement found. Low-frequency wave characteristics are then discussed in terms of their physical nature and their relationship to the primary wave field on a series of sea bottom slopes. Unlike primary waves, low-frequency wave energy increases towards the shoreline. Low-frequency waves in the surf and swash are a function of incident waves and the sea bottom slope and hence the saturation level of the surf zone. Wave energy on a gently sloping beach is dominated by low-frequency waves while primary waves play a significant role on a steep beach. Low-frequency wave radiation from the surf zone on a given beach depends on primary wave frequency and beach slope. However, a very poor correlation was found between surf similarity parameter and low-frequency wave radiation. |
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| Keywords: | Low frequency waves Surf zone Bichromatic wave groups Wave groupiness Bound low-frequency wave Break point generated long wave Swash oscillation |
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