A scale comparison of waves breaking on a beach |
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| Authors: | MJF Stive |
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| Institution: | Delft Hydraulics Laboratory, P.O. Box 152, 8300 AD Emmeloord, The Netherlands |
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| Abstract: | A measurement programme, conducted in a small-scale wave flume, which comprised the breaking of periodic and random waves on a gently sloping beach, was partly repeated in a large-scale wave flume. The results are used here to make a scale comparison. The quantities considered in the comparison are wave heights, set-up and vertical profiles of maximum seaward, maximum shoreward and time-mean horizontal velocities. It appears that, both qualitatively and quantitatively, scale effects in these quantities are virtually absent in the wave height range of 0.1 m to 1.5 m. |
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