Prediction of nearshore wave heights using a refraction programme |
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| Authors: | NP Kurian M Baba TSShahul Hameed |
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| Institution: | Centre for Earth Science Studies, Regional Centre, Cochin - 682 018, India |
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| Abstract: | The Dobson wave refraction programme, modified to incorporate bottom frictional attenuation, is being tested for its universal applicability for prediction of nearshore wave heights. An investigation has been undertaken to test the applicability of this programme for the prediction of wave heights over a gently sloping, wide continental shelf. The study has been carried out in the shelf waters off Alleppey, situated along the southwest coast of India. The measured wave height at a nearshore point and the computed wave height at the same point are compared. The application of Spearman's rank correlation and Wilcoxon's matched-pairs signed-ranks test has indicated that there is a high degree of correlation between the measured and predicted heights. Since similar results have been obtained by Bryant (1979) for steep shelf waters of Australia, it may be concluded that the programme can be used in different coastal waters irrespective of the nature of the shelf gradient, but subject to other limitations of the programme. |
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