Non-hydrostatic modeling of surf zone wave dynamics |
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| Institution: | 1. Environmental Fluid Mechanics Section, Faculty of Civil Engineering and Geosciences, Delft University of Technology, P.O. Box 5048, 2600 GA Delft, The Netherlands;2. Theiss Research, 30 Portola Ave, El Granada, CA 94018, USA;3. U.S. Army Engineer Research and Development Center, 3909 Halls Ferry Road, Vicksburg, MS 39180-6199, USA;1. Coastal Dynamics and Engineering Group, Infrastructure and Geomatics Division, Faculty of Engineering, University of Nottingham, NottinghamNG7 2RD, UK;2. Laboratorio de Ingeniería y Procesos Costeros, Instituto de Ingeniería, Universidad Nacional Autónoma de México, Sisal, Mexico;3. School of Civil Engineering, University of Queensland, Brisbane, QLD4072, Australia;4. Università Politecnica delle Marche, Department of Civil and Building Engineering and Architecture (DICEA), Italy;5. Center for Applied Coastal Research, Civil and Environmental Engineering, University of Delaware, Newark, DE19716, USA;6. Programa de Maestría y Doctorado en Ingeniería, Universidad Nacional Autónoma de México, DF04510, Mexico;1. CECO - Centro de Estudos de Geologia Costeira e Oceânica, Instituto de Geociências, Universidade Federal do Rio Grande do Sul, Campus do Vale Av. Bento Gonçalves, 9500 Porto Alegre, RS, Brazil;2. Instituto de Matemática and CECO - Centro de Estudos de Geologia Costeira e Oceânica, Universidade Federal do Rio Grande do Sul, Campus do Vale Av. Bento Gonçalves, 9500 Porto Alegre, RS, Brazil;3. BCAM - Basque Center for Applied Mathematics, Alameda de Mazarredo 14, 48009 Bilbao, Bizkaia, Spain;4. Instituto de Hidráulica Ambiental “IH Cantabria”, C/Isabel Torres 15, Parque Científico y Tecnológico de Cantabria, 39011 Santander, Spain;5. IKERBASQUE, Basque Foundation for Science, E-48013 Bilbao, Spain;1. The State Key Laboratory of Coastal and Offshore Engineering, Dalian University of Technology, Dalian 116024, China;2. Transportation Management College, Dalian Maritime University, Dalian 116026, China |
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| Abstract: | Non-hydrostatic models such as Surface WAves till SHore (SWASH) resolve many of the relevant physics in coastal wave propagation such as dispersion, shoaling, refraction, dissipation and nonlinearity. However, for efficiency, they assume a single-valued surface and therefore do not resolve some aspects of breaking waves such as wave overturning, turbulence generation, and air entrainment. To study the ability of such models to represent nonlinear wave dynamics and statistics in a dissipative surf zone, we compare simulations with SWASH to flume observations of random, unidirectional waves, incident on a 1:30 planar beach. The experimental data includes a wide variation in the incident wave fields, so that model performance can be studied over a large range of wave conditions. Our results show that, without specific calibration, the model accurately predicts second-order bulk parameters such as wave height and period, the details of the spectral evolution, and higher-order statistics, such as skewness and asymmetry of the waves. Monte Carlo simulations show that the model can capture the principal features of the wave probability density function in the surf zone, and that the spectral distribution of dissipation in SWASH is proportional to the frequency squared, which is consistent with observations reported by earlier studies. These results show that relatively efficient non-hydrostatic models such as SWASH can be successfully used to parametrize surf zone wave processes. |
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