The statistical distributions for the elevation,velocity and acceleration of the surface of wind waves |
| |
| Authors: | Tadao Honda Hisashi Mitsuyasu |
| |
| Institution: | (1) Research Institute for Applied Mechanics, Kyushu University, Hakozaki, Higashi-ku, 812 Fukuoka, Japan |
| |
| Abstract: | Water surface elevations (t), vertical surface velocities
and vertical surface acceleration
of wind-generated waves have been measured in a laboratory wind wave channel by using resistance-type wave gauges combined with an electronic differentiation circuits. Probability distributions of the values of(t),
, and
have been determined from the wave records.In an initial stage of wave generation,i.e., when wind waves are generated at short fetches and low wind speeds, the observed distributions for(t),
and
are appreciately good fit to the distributions given by successive sum of a Gram-Charlier series, which has been derived following the formulation ofLonguet-Higgins (1963), by taking the weakly nonlinear effect into account.However, when wind waves develop with increasing wind speeds and fetches, the observed distributions deviate gradually from the Gram-Charlier series. Particularly, the deviations are remarkable for the distribution of
.When the wind speed increases, the observed distributions of(t),
and
show the following characteristics: (i) the skewnesses of the distributions of(t) and
decrease slightly, (ii) the skewness of
changes, at some wind speed, from positive small values to relatively large negative values, (iii) the kurtosis of the distribution of(t) decreases slightly but that of
increases slightly and these characteristics seem to depend not so much on fetches, (iv) the kurtosis of the distribution of
increases rapidly. |
| |
| Keywords: | |
| 本文献已被 SpringerLink 等数据库收录！ |
|
