The influence of beach porosity on wave uprush and backwash |
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Authors: | AR Packwood |
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Institution: | Department of Mathematics, University of Bristol, University Walk, Bristol BS8 1TW Great Britain |
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Abstract: | Packwood, A.R., 1983. The influence of beach porosity on wave uprush and backwash. Coastal Eng., 7: 29–40.A numerical model is described to calculate the influence of a porous bed on the run-up of a bore on a gently sloping sandy beach. It is shown that fine-medium grade sands have very little effect in the run-up phase. Significant differences between impermeable and porous bed solutions are found in the backwash which might explain certain sand erosion and deposition phenomena. |
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