Wave setup/setdown and longshore current on non-planar beaches |
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| Authors: | WG McDougal RT Hudspeth |
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| Institution: | Ocean Engineering Program, Department of Civil Engineering, Oregon State University, Corvallis, OR 97331 U.S.A. |
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| Abstract: | Wave-induced setup/setdown and longshore currents are examined theoretically for non-planar, concave-up beaches. A beach profile in which the still-water-depth is proportional to the horizontal distance offshore raised to the power is examined in detail. The total mean-water-depth, which includes the sum of the still-water-depth for this power beach profile plus the wave-induced setup/setdown, may be approximated shoreward of the breaker line in a best least-squares sense by a profile that is proportional to the horizontal distance offshore raised to the power. The longshore current profile for this non-planar beach is found to differ significantly from that predicted analytically for a planar beach. The longshore current velocity does not vanish at the shoreline as in the planar beach case. In addition, the peak velocities and the total longshore transport of water are found to be less than for the corresponding planar beach cases. For a given concave-up beach profile, the influence of the lateral mixing increases as the wave height decreases. |
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