Run-up of long waves on a beach: The influence of the incident wave form |
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| Authors: | I I Didenkulova E N Pelinovsky |
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| Institution: | (1) Institute of Applied Physics, Russian Academy of Sciences, Nizhnii Novgorod, Russia;(2) Department of Applied Mathematics, Nizhnii Novgorod State Technical University, Nizhnii Novgorod, Russia |
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| Abstract: | The influence of the incident wave form on the extreme (maximal) characteristics of a wave at a beach (run-up and draw-down heights, run-up and draw-down velocities, and the breaking parameter) is studied. It is suggested to use in the calculations the definition of wavelength at a level of 2/3 of the maximal height, which to a certain degree correlates with the definition of the significant wavelength accepted in oceanology. Such a definition allows us to unify the relations for extreme run-up characteristics so that the influence of the incident wave form becomes insignificant. The obtained universal relations can be used for the estimates of run-up characteristics when the exact information about the form of the incident wave is not available. |
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