Numerical modelling of wind effects on breaking waves in the surf zone |
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| Authors: | Zhihua Xie |
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| Institution: | 1.Hydro-environmental Research Centre, School of Engineering,Cardiff University,Cardiff,UK;2.Department of Chemical Engineering,Imperial College London,London,UK;3.State Key Laboratory of Coastal and Offshore Engineering,Dalian University of Technology,Dalian,China |
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| Abstract: | Wind effects on periodic breaking waves in the surf zone have been investigated in this study using a two-phase flow model. The model solves the Reynolds-averaged Navier–Stokes equations with the k ? ?? turbulence model simultaneously for the flows both in the air and water. Both spilling and plunging breakers over a 1:35 sloping beach have been studied under the influence of wind, with a focus during wave breaking. Detailed information of the distribution of wave amplitudes and mean water level, wave-height-to-water-depth ratio, the water surface profiles, velocity, vorticity, and turbulence fields have been presented and discussed. The inclusion of wind alters the air flow structure above water waves, increases the generation of vorticity, and affects the wave shoaling, breaking, overturning, and splash-up processes. Wind increases the water particle velocities and causes water waves to break earlier and seaward, which agrees with the previous experiment. |
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