| A laboratory study of directional spectra with maximum likelihood method-Ⅰ Developing wind wave |
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| 作者姓名： | Zhao Dongliang Masuda Akir Wen Shengchang Guan Changlong |
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| 作者单位： | Institute of Physical Oceanography, Ocean University of Qingdao, Qingdao 266003, China;Research Institute for Applied Mechanics, Kyūshū University, Kasuga 816, Japan;Institute of Physical Oceanography, Ocean University of Qingdao, Qingdao 266003, China;Institute of Physical Oceanography, Ocean University of Qingdao, Qingdao 266003, China |
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| 摘 要： | measurements by a circular array consisting of 18 wave gauges in a large wave tank, directional spectra of wind-generated waves in deep water are systematically determined by using maximum likelihood method The investigations reveal that the angular spreading of the wave energy is consistent with cos2s(θ/2) proposed by Longuet-Higgins et al.(1963, Ocean Wave Spectra, 111-136), if the bimodal distributions of wave energy are not taken into account. Bimodality occurring on higher frequency than peak frequency is too rare to affect our whole resalts. Surprisingly, a much broader directional spreading than that of the field, which is interpreted by the strongly nonlinear energy transfer because of the very young waves in laboratory, is found. The parameter s depends on frequency in the same way as observed by Mitsuyasu et al.(1975, Journal of Physical Oceanography, 5, 750-760) and Hasselmann et al.(1980, Journal of Physical Oceanography, 10, 1264-1280) in the field, and the relationship between the four nondimensional parameters sm, fo, b1 and b2, determining the directional width, and ū10 (corresponding to the inverse of wave age) are given respectively. The observed distributions are found to agree well with the suggestion of Donelan et al.(1985, Philosophical Transaction of Royal Society of London, A315, 509-562) when applied to field waves.
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| 关 键 词： | Directional spectrum maximum likelihood method wind wave |
| 收稿时间： | 1997/5/15 0:00:00 |
| 修稿时间： | 1997/7/21 0:00:00 |
A laboratory study of directional spectra with maximum likelihood method-Ⅰ Developing wind wave |
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| Zhao Dongliang,Masuda Akir,Wen Shengchang,Guan Changlong.A laboratory study of directional spectra with maximum likelihood method-Ⅰ Developing wind wave[J].Acta Oceanologica Sinica,1999,18(1):59-74. |
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| Authors: | Zhao Dongliang Masuda Akir Wen Shengchang and Guan Changlong |
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| Institution: | 1.Institute of Physical Oceanography, Ocean University of Qingdao, Qingdao 266003, China2.Research Institute for Applied Mechanics, Kyūshū University, Kasuga 816, Japan |
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| Abstract: | measurements by a circular array consisting of 18 wave gauges in a large wave tank, directional spectra of wind-generated waves in deep water are systematically determined by using maximum likelihood method The investigations reveal that the angular spreading of the wave energy is consistent with cos2s(θ/2) proposed by Longuet-Higgins et al.(1963, Ocean Wave Spectra, 111-136), if the bimodal distributions of wave energy are not taken into account. Bimodality occurring on higher frequency than peak frequency is too rare to affect our whole resalts. Surprisingly, a much broader directional spreading than that of the field, which is interpreted by the strongly nonlinear energy transfer because of the very young waves in laboratory, is found. The parameter s depends on frequency in the same way as observed by Mitsuyasu et al.(1975, Journal of Physical Oceanography, 5, 750-760) and Hasselmann et al.(1980, Journal of Physical Oceanography, 10, 1264-1280) in the field, and the relationship between the four nondimensional parameters sm, fo, b1 and b2, determining the directional width, and ū10 (corresponding to the inverse of wave age) are given respectively. The observed distributions are found to agree well with the suggestion of Donelan et al.(1985, Philosophical Transaction of Royal Society of London, A315, 509-562) when applied to field waves. |
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| Keywords: | Directional spectrum maximum likelihood method wind wave |
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