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Verification of linear theory for particle velocities in wind waves based on field measurements
Authors:JA Battjes  J van Heteren
Institution:

Delft University of Technology, Delft, The Netherlands

Department of Public Works, Rijkswaterstaat, Hellevoetsluis, The Netherlands

Abstract:Analyses are presented of field measurements of spectral transfer functions between surface elevation and subsurface three-dimensional particle velocity in wind-generated waves, in conditions ranging from young seas to old swells. The results are in agreement with the linear theory predictions to within the measurement error margin, which is estimated to be ± 5% for the gain functions and ± 4° in phase as far as the possible systemic errors are concerned. No correlation is found of the degree of agreement between measurements and linear theory with wave age or wave sleepness.
Keywords:wind waves  particle velocities  spectra  transfer functions  field measurements
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