A probability distribution for depth-limited extreme wave heights in a sea state |
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| Authors: | Fernando J Mndez Sonia Castanedo |
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| Institution: | aOcean & Coastal Research Group, Instituto de Hidráulica Ambiental “IH Cantabria”, Universidad de Cantabria, Spain |
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| Abstract: | A model for the depth-limited distribution of the highest wave in a sea state is presented. The distribution for the extreme wave height is based on a probability density function (pdf) for depth-limited wave height distribution for individual waves Méndez, F.J., Losada, I.J., Medina, R. 2004. Transformation model of wave height distribution. Coastal Eng, Vol. 50, 97:115.] and considers the correlation between consecutive waves. The model is validated using field data showing a good representation of the extreme wave heights in the surf zone. Some important statistical wave heights are parameterized obtaining useful expressions that can be used in further calculations. |
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| Keywords: | Breaking waves Depth-limited Surf zone Wave height distribution Probability density function Sea state Joint distribution |
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