| Theoretical wind wave frequency spectra in deep water——Ⅰ. Form of spectrum |
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| 作者姓名： | Wen Shengchang |
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| 作者单位： | Institute of Physical Oceanography, Shandong College of Oceanography, Qingdao, China;Institute of Physical Oceanography, Shandong College of Oceanography, Qingdao, China;Institute of Physical Oceanography, Shandong College of Oceanography, Qingdao, China;Institute of Physical Oceanography, Shandong College of Oceanography, Qingdao, China |
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| 摘 要： | In this part ot the paper theoretical wind-wave spectra nave been derived oy (I) expressing the spectrum in series composed of exponential terms; (2) assuming that the spectrum satisfies a high order linear ordinary differential equation; (3) introducing proper parameters in the spectrum; and (4) making use of some known charateristics of wind-wave spectrum, for instance, the law governing the equilibrium range. The spectrum obtained contains the zero order moment of the spectrum m0, the peak frequency ω0 and the ratio R =ω/ω0 (ω being the mean zero-crossing frequency) as parameters. The shape of the nondimensional spectrum S(ω) = ω0S(ω)/m0(ω=ω/ω0) changes with R and theoretically reduces to a Dirac delta function δ(ω-1) when R = 1. A spectrum of simplified form is given for practical uses, in which R is replaced by a peakness factor P=S(1).
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| 收稿时间： | 1987/7/15 0:00:00 |
| 修稿时间： | 1987/8/20 0:00:00 |
Theoretical wind wave frequency spectra in deep water——Ⅰ. Form of spectrum |
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| Wen Shengchang.Theoretical wind wave frequency spectra in deep water——Ⅰ. Form of spectrum[J].Acta Oceanologica Sinica,1988,7(1):1-16. |
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| Authors: | Wen Shengchang |
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| Institution: | Institute of Physical Oceanography, Shandong College of Oceanography, Qingdao, China |
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| Abstract: | In this part ot the paper theoretical wind-wave spectra nave been derived by (1) expressing the spectrum in series composed of exponential terms; (2) assuming that the spectrum satisfies a high order linear ordinary differential equation; (3) introducing proper parameters in the spectrum; and (4) making use of some known charateristics of wind-wave spectrum, for instance, the law governing the equilibrium range. The spectrum obtained contains the zero order moment of the spectrum ω0, the peak frequency ω0 and the ratio R=ω/ω0 (ω being the mean zero-crossing frequency) as parameters. The shape of the nondimensional spectrum Š(ω)=ω0S(ω)/ω0(ω=ω/ω0) changes with R and theoretically reduces to a Dirac delta function δ(ω-1) when R=1. A spectrum of simplified form is given for practical uses, in which R is replaced by a peakness factor P=Š(1). |
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