Some qualitative aspects of nonlinear wave radiation in a surf zone |
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Authors: | Brent Gallagher |
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Institution: | Department of Oceanography, University of Hawaii
, Hawaii |
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Abstract: | AbstractPhotographs are presented which show a series of small waves produced in a surf zone behind the front of each breaking swell. They probably represent solutions to the Korteweg deVries (cnoidal-wave) equation, and their generation is favored by bottom topography not typical of most surf zones. |
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