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破碎波概率分析及实测结果
引用本文:楼顺里,田纪伟,王胄.破碎波概率分析及实测结果[J].中国海洋大学学报(自然科学版),1995(4).
作者姓名:楼顺里  田纪伟  王胄
作者单位:青岛海洋大学物理海洋实验室,台湾大学海洋研究所
基金项目:国家自然科学基金,国家重点科学基金
摘    要:总结破碎波近年来的研究状况,从理论上对计算破碎波发生率进行分析。并利用先进的实验设备和良好的现场条件,从实验研究出发,在研究波浪破碎过程及其与环境参量的关系中,对破碎波发生率进行实际测量。利用不同的破碎波判据对破碎波发生率进行了计算、比较和分析,结果指出;利用不同的破碎波判据计算的破碎波发生率相差很大,甚至相差3~4倍。

关 键 词:破碎波概率,破碎波判据,实验研究

THEORETICAL AND EXPERIMENTAL STUDIES ON THE PROBABILITY OF WAVE BREAKING
Lou Shunli, Tian Jiwei.THEORETICAL AND EXPERIMENTAL STUDIES ON THE PROBABILITY OF WAVE BREAKING[J].Periodical of Ocean University of China,1995(4).
Authors:Lou Shunli  Tian Jiwei
Abstract:It is well known that breaking waves have a significant influence on air-sea interaction and ocean remote sensing. A key problem in the study of wave breaking iShow to calculate correctly the probability of wave breaking. In this paper, we review the study of wave breaking, analyse the probability of wave breaking in theory, and present the occurrence frequency of wave breaking measured both in the.laboratory and field. The presented results of wave breaking, which are calculatedfrom the measured data by the different criterions of wave breaking, have beencompared and discussed. It is shown that the differences among the probabilitiescalculated by the different criterions can be as large as 3 to 4 times.
Keywords:Probability of wave breaking  experiment  measurement  
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