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近岸波浪破碎区不规则波浪的数值模拟
引用本文:唐军,沈永明,崔雷,邱大洪.近岸波浪破碎区不规则波浪的数值模拟[J].海洋学报,2008,30(2):147-152.
作者姓名:唐军  沈永明  崔雷  邱大洪
作者单位:大连理工大学, 海岸和近海工程国家重点实验室, 辽宁, 大连, 116023
基金项目:国家重点基础研究发展计划(973计划) , 国家自然科学基金 , 上海交通大学海洋工程国家重点实验室研究基金
摘    要:基于近岸不规则波浪传播的抛物型缓坡方程和两类波浪破碎能量损耗因子,对近岸波浪破碎区不规则波浪的波高分布进行了数值模拟,并结合实验结果对数值模拟结果进行了验证分析,结果表明采用两类波浪破碎能量损耗因子所模拟的破碎区波高与实测值均吻合良好,波浪破碎能量损耗因子及波浪破碎指标对破碎区波浪波高分布影响较明显。

关 键 词:不规则波浪    抛物型缓坡方程    破碎波    波能损耗
文章编号:0253-4193(2008)02-0147-06
收稿时间:1/6/2007 12:00:00 AM
修稿时间:2007年1月6日

Numerical simulation of irregular water waves in coastal surf zones
TANG Jun,SHEN Yong-ming,CUI Lei and QIU Da-hong.Numerical simulation of irregular water waves in coastal surf zones[J].Acta Oceanologica Sinica (in Chinese),2008,30(2):147-152.
Authors:TANG Jun  SHEN Yong-ming  CUI Lei and QIU Da-hong
Institution:State Key Laboratory of Coastal and Offshore Engineering, Dalian University of Technology, Dalian 116023, China
Abstract:On the basis of the parabolic mild-slope equation for irregular water waves and two wave energy dissipation factors due to breaking wave effect,the distribution of breaking wave heights has been numerically simulated,and the numerical results have been analyzed and validated by experimental data. It is shown that the two wave energy dissipation factors due to wave breaking effect adopted here can both achieve a good agreement between the numerical and experimental results,and the breaking water wave energy dissipation factor and breaking wave index parameter play important roles on the distribution of breaking wave heights in surf zones.
Keywords:irregular water wave  parabolic mild-slope equation  breaking water waves  wave energy dissipation
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