An unsteady wave driver for narrowbanded waves: modeling nearshore circulation driven by wave groups |
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| Authors: | Andrew B Kennedy James T Kirby |
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| Institution: | a Department of Civil and Coastal Engineering, University of Florida, Gainesville, FL 32611-6590, USA;b Center for Applied Coastal Research, University of Delaware, Newark, DE 19716, USA |
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| Abstract: | In this paper, we derive an unsteady refraction–diffraction model for narrowbanded water waves for use in computing coupled wave–current motion in the nearshore. The end result is a variable coefficient, nonlinear Schrödinger-type wave driver (describing the envelope of narrow-banded incident waves) coupled to forced nonlinear shallow water equations (describing steady or unsteady mean flows driven by the short-wave field). Comparisons with experimental data show that good accuracy can be obtained for cases of nonbreaking wave transformation. Numerical simulations show that the interaction of wave groups with longshore topographic nonuniformities generates strong edge wave resonances, providing a generating mechanism for low-order edge waves. |
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| Keywords: | Water waves Wave transformation Numerical methods Nearshore circulation Diffraction Edge waves |
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