Case study of the transformation of swells propagating into Sendai Bay |
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| Authors: | Yongliang Wei Hiroshi Kawamura |
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| Institution: | (1) Center for Atmospheric and Oceanic Studies, Graduate School of Science, Tohoku University, Sendai 980-8578, Japan;(2) College of Marine Sciences, Shanghai Ocean University, Shanghai, 201306, China; |
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| Abstract: | A high-resolution two-dimensional map of swell wavelength and propagating direction was retrieved from a phased array type
L-band synthetic aperture radar scene observed on 24 September 2006 over Sendai Bay in the Tohoku region of Japan. Features
of the wavelength map were compared with a wavelength map calculated from in situ measurements of the swell period using infinitesimal
amplitude surface wave theory. The maps corresponded well in most areas, although large differences appeared in the near-shore
area (area I) and an area of complicated bottom topography (area II). Because the spatial resolution of swell parameters was
too coarse to investigate the surface waves in area I, wavelet transform (WT) was applied along a swell ray to improve the
spatial resolution. In the resulting WT wavelength map, the large difference in area I disappeared. For area II, perturbation
theory was introduced for surface waves propagating obliquely on a gentle slope. The large wavelength difference in area II
was well explained by the second-order solution of perturbation theory. |
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