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A formal derivation and numerical modelling of the improved Boussinesq equations for varying depth
Authors:S Beji  K Nadaoka
Institution:Department of Naval Architecture and Ocean Engineering, Istanbul Technical University, Maslak 80626 Istanbul, Turkey;Department of Civil Engineering, Tokyo Institute of Technology, 2-12-1 O-okayama, Meguro-ku, Tokyo 152 Japan
Abstract:A formal derivation of the improved Boussinesq equations of Madsen and Sørens (1992) is presented to provide the correct forms of the depth-gradient related terms. Linear shoaling characteristics of the new equations are investigated by the method of Madsen and Sørensen (1992) and by the energy flux concept separately and found to agree perfectly, whereas these approaches give conflicting results for the equations derived by Madsen and Sørensen (1992). Furthermore, Nwogu's (1993) modified Boussinesq model is found to produce a linear shoaling-gradient identical with the present work. Numerical modelling of the derived equations for directional waves is carried out by three-time-level finite-difference approximations. A higher-order radiation condition is implemented for effective absorption of the outgoing waves. Several test cases are included to demonstrate the performance of the model.
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