| Theoretical wind wave frequency spectra in shallow water |
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| 作者姓名： | Wen Shengchang |
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| 作者单位： | Institute of Physical Oceanography, Shandong College of Oceanography, Qingdao, China;Institute of Physical Oceanography, Shandong College of Oceanography, Qingdao, China;Institute of Physical Oceanography, Shandong College of Oceanography, Qingdao, China;Institute of Physical Oceanography, Shandong College of Oceanography, Qingdao, China |
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| 摘 要： | The method developed by Wen et al. (1988 a) for deriving theoretical wind wave frequency spectrum in deep water is extended to the case of water of finite depth, in which a parameter η=H/d is introduced, where H and d represent the average wave height and water depth respectively. The derived spectra reduce to those in deep water when η=0. The case of η=1/2 corresponds to waves impending to break because of the effect of the bottom. Simplified forms of spectra are given. The theoretical results agree with the observed spectra well.
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| 收稿时间： | 1987/9/10 0:00:00 |
| 修稿时间： | 1987/11/20 0:00:00 |
Theoretical wind wave frequency spectra in shallow water |
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| Wen Shengchang.Theoretical wind wave frequency spectra in shallow water[J].Acta Oceanologica Sinica,1988,7(3):325-343. |
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| Authors: | Wen Shengchang |
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| Institution: | Institute of Physical Oceanography, Shandong College of Oceanography, Qingdao, China |
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| Abstract: | The method developed by Wen et al. (1988a) for deriving theoretical wind wave frequency spectrum in deep water is extended to the case of water of finite depth, in which a parameter η=H/d is introduced, where H and d represent the average wave height and water depth respectively. The derived spectra reduce to those in deep water when η=0. The case of η=1/2 corresponds to waves impending to break because of the effect of the bottom. Simplified forms of spectra are given. The theoretical results agree with the observed spectra well. |
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