| 基于破碎临界区的新型拍岸浪统计计算模型研究 |
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| 作者姓名： | YANG Jiaxuan LI Xunqiang ZHU Shouxian ZHANG Wenjing WANG Lei |
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| 基金项目： | The National Natural Science Foundation of China under contract Nos 41076048 and 40906044. |
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| 摘 要： | When waves propagate from deep water to shallow water, wave heights and steepness increase and then waves roll back and break. This phenomenon is called surf. Currently, the present statistical calcula...
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| 关 键 词： | 波高 统计计算模型 破碎前临界区 水槽实验 |
| 收稿时间： | 2014/7/14 0:00:00 |
| 修稿时间： | 2014/11/18 0:00:00 |
A new statistical model of wave heights based on the concept of wave breaking critical zone |
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| YANG Jiaxuan,LI Xunqiang,ZHU Shouxian,ZHANG Wenjing,WANG Lei.A new statistical model of wave heights based on the concept of wave breaking critical zone[J].Acta Oceanologica Sinica,2015,34(5):81-85. |
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| Authors: | YANG Jiaxuan LI Xunqiang ZHU Shouxian ZHANG Wenjing and WANG Lei |
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| Institution: | 1.Institute of Noise and Vibration, Naval University of Engineering, Wuhan 430033, China;Institute of Meteorology and Marine, PLA University of Science and Technology, Nanjing 210001, China;National Key Laboratory on Ship Vibration and Noise, Wuhan 430033, China2.Institute of Meteorology and Marine, PLA University of Science and Technology, Nanjing 210001, China3.College of Harbour, Coastal and Offshore Engineering, Hohai University, Nanjing 210098, China |
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| Abstract: | When waves propagate from deep water to shallow water, wave heights and steepness increase and then waves roll back and break. This phenomenon is called surf. Currently, the present statistical calculation model of surf was derived mainly from the wave energy conservation equation and the linear wave dispersion relation, but it cannot reflect accurately the process which is a rapid increasing in wave height near the broken point. So, the concept of a surf breaking critical zone is presented. And the nearshore is divided as deep water zone, shallow water zone, surf breaking critical zone and after breaking zone. Besides, the calculation formula for the height of the surf breaking critical zone has founded based on flume experiments, thereby a new statistical calculation model on the surf has been established. Using the new model, the calculation error of wave height maximum is reduced from 17.62% to 6.43%. |
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| Keywords: | wave height statistical model surf breaking critical zone flume experiments |
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