| ANALYTICAL SOLUTION FOR THE VELOCITY POTENTIAL OF LINEAR WAVES OVER SLOPING BEACHES |
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| 作者姓名： | 胡定明 |
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| 作者单位： | Shandong College |
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| 摘 要： | An analytical solution for the velocity potential of linear waves traveling over sloping beaches is obtained in the present paper, the restriction to the solution, i. e. the cube of bottom slope a being negligible. When the terms of order of a2 are neglected, the solution is the same as that presented by Biesel in 19511]. When the terms of order of a2 are retained, the wave dispersion relation is corrected. Forthermore, the solution corrected to any higher order of a can be obtained without difficulty by means of the disturbation method given by this paper".
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| 收稿时间： | 1984/9/15 0:00:00 |
| 修稿时间： | 1985/1/18 0:00:00 |
ANALYTICAL SOLUTION FOR THE VELOCITY POTENTIAL OF LINEAR WAVES OVER SLOPING BEACHES |
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| HU DINGMING.ANALYTICAL SOLUTION FOR THE VELOCITY POTENTIAL OF LINEAR WAVES OVER SLOPING BEACHES[J].Acta Oceanologica Sinica,1986,5(1):1-14. |
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| Authors: | HU DINGMING |
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| Institution: | Shandong College of Oceanology, Qingdao |
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| Abstract: | An analytical solution for the velocity potential of linear waves traveling over sloping beaches is obtained in the present paper, the restriction to the solution, i.e.the cube of bottom slope α being negligible.When the terms of order of α2 are neglected, the solution is the same as that presented by Biesel in 19511].When the terms of order of α2 are retained, the wave dispersion relation is corrected.Forthermore, the solution corrected to any higher order of α can be obtained without difficulty by means of the disturbation method given by this paper1). |
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